First getting to Buenos Aires I noticed a lot more people with darker skin tones, and hair. And more indigenous features than in cordoba. I’ve noticed getting looked at less going through the bus station which was a little nice. But we are also just getting off of the bus so it could get either better or worse throughout this experience.
I had more photos but thought it would be ethical to not show faces.
My time in Cordoba has been very eventful and full of new experiences. Visiting the Gauchos and riding horses is definitely a memory I will not forget. Admittedly I was very nervous upon arriving at the ranch, but I soon forgot about those nerves upon meeting the puppies and walking around the land. When the first group left on their ride, I stayed behind and helped make empanadas and played with the puppies. When it was my turn to go the nerves returned briefly before we were off on our ride. When we returned we had an asado, and were treated to music from friends of Salvador. This has been one of my favorite experiences so far and I felt really welcomed in this area.
We visited a beautiful town named Cumbercita. This town reminds me of a place where Smurfs would live. I was taken away by the beauty of nature. We all gathered at one of the streams, where we sat and enjoyed lunch. My favorite part was seeing the waterfall and having a chance to reflect and Thank God for all he has created for my eyes to witness.
Today was a beautiful day in La Cumbrecita, small town in the mountains outside of the city. One of the most stunning sites was the Lago de las Truchas where we ate lunch. The water was so beautiful, clear, and inviting and it had a calming effect after the heaviness of yesterday. We made some dog friends! The waterfall was also beautiful to see. It felt extra special because I genuinely was not sure I would make it up all of those rocks, but I did. I am currently exhausted but proud of myself for making it.
A familiar meal
We began by tying up our hair, washing vegetables, and chopping them into various bowls before mixing them with vinegar, oil, and seasoning. I slip into this ritual like it’s an inviting wave, gliding me through the motions of rocking the knife back-and-forth and making small-talk across English and Spanish.
A cherished friend once told me that it may serve us well to look for “thin” places — where the delineation between profane and sacred becomes blurred. I think of those moments as when I find myself smiling for seemingly no reason, when the conversations flow as if I’ve been having them lifetimes before, and when the wind feels like a loving embrace.
I found it today, here with our new and newer friends from across the world. I helped flip, cut, and serve the asada after helping with the salad — learning a few techniques that I knew would likely be revealed. Believe it or not, South American men approach singularity the closer they are to a grill, and their jeers and jests become more predictable.
We drank good beer and better wine while talking about our youth, our experiences abroad, what home looks like, and what we like about Argentina so far. I helped out as the table-translator at points, describing things like speeding tickets and Pink Whitney to our Argentine hosts — and let me say, the tinto definitely helps me understand el acento cordobes.
In some ways, it felt as if I had met everyone years ago and we had finally come together to meet once more. It was fluid, it was lively, it was happy, and it was real. I watched parrots and pigeons fly over the green palms and laughed at Spanish dad jokes. I tried matambre fresh off the grill, and can report that it’s actually okay that Argentines cook the hell out of their meat. I walked in the garden with new friends as we remembered home, with pain and with fondness.
I used to always feel an anxiety about times like these ending; a sadness about a “little death” of a good thing. As I grow older and experience more of these moments, I become more and more comfortable with these endings as catalysts of being able to enjoy it. Life wouldn’t be as fun if we could have everything all the time (thinking of that one Twilight Zone episode).
Sitting in the van on the way to the next event, I watched out of the back window as the sun started to inch towards the horizon. I saw three friends joking with each other as they rode the same bike. I saw the neighborhood settling in for the dark. I felt good.
MEMENTO MORI
Today was a fun-packed day! We woke up early to start a walking tour of Córdoba, thanks to Laura. We walked through the pedestrian shopping district and ended up in Plaza San Martin, where we boarded a city tour bus! Mary-Sue, Emily, Gabe, and I got the pleasure of sitting at the top of the bus – the weather was perfect. We toured all around Córdoba, and I really enjoyed exploring areas close to the university and the adjacent park. I learned that the three public universities in Córdoba are free, which is amazing. The architecture here is fascinating – between the European-style buildings and near brutalism, there’s quite a mixed bag.
After the tour, we explored a little more and got to see two gorgeous churches. The Gothic church was especially beautiful, and we got to witness the last couple minutes of afternoon mass. By then everyone was starving. We headed outside the city to Laura’s house, where she and her husband graciously fed us an amazing meal and gave us incredible hospitality. It was such an amazing meal and overall experience. I loved hanging out with Valentín, even if we had a major language barrier. We all rested in the backyard after ribs, steak, chorizo, salad, and ice cream for dessert. Needless to say, I was no longer hangry.
Our last stop of the day was Los Caruchines, a non-profit organization that provides after-school tutoring, a place to play, and community support. It was interesting and sad to hear that many children and families in that area were lacking just basic needs – clothes, mattresses, food, etc. The selflessness of Micela and David was admirable, given that they have had to dig into their own pockets to keep the place up and running. I was happy to buy a shirt from them knowing the funds are going directly to those in need. While we were there, we learned how to make traditional mate! The process was super interesting, and while I didn’t necessarily love the taste, I appreciate the significance it has in Argentine culture. It really grew on Javon, though. He kept going back for more.
Since landing in Argentina yesterday, I have been overjoyed at how lively the country the country was upon arrival. After a very hectic traveling day, we all gathered to get dinner at Storni, a restaurant filled with art, records, and a space for a band and dancing. When Laura Bonelli told us that late dinners were the norm here and this was confirmed. When we were leaving around 9 o’clock, it seemed as though the night was just getting started for everyone who arrived after us. We were also able to see the spirit of the people in Cordoba at a soccer match for the Instituto Atlético Central Cordoba. Singing could be heard from the stands throughout the game, and nearly everyone was wearing red and white. The game was exhilarating from beginning to end as the winning goal was scored less than 3 minutes before the end of the game.
