I was surprised to find that ESMA was so close to residential buildings and businesses in the city. I had expected it to be more out of the way, like La Perla. Several of these buildings were there at the time of the dictatorship, so the residents may have even been aware of ESMA being used as a detention center. So many more of these sites were in places where people lived or traveled past than I expected. It was also interesting to learn that under Menem’s presidency, ESMA was supposed to be torn down and developed, becoming just another part of the surrounding neighborhood, all evidence of atrocities committed simply erased. I’m glad activists were able to fight to prevent that and instead to turn it into a memory site, and that their voices were heard. I feel like the site would have likely been built over if it was in the U.S., sadly, as there is a tendency to gloss over any negative history. It is also a contrast to Club Atlético. While also a memory site, it had a highway built over it, in an attempt by the dictatorship to erase the history, whether intentional or not, and seems to not be getting many resources to uncover more of the buried space.
Hey Mia! Detention centers such as Esma, Club Atletico, or even D2 being located in such populated places has been very shocking. I think it implies that the military government wanted citizens to know what could happen to them if they did not comply with their rule. I do not know if it would have been destroyed if it were in the U.S., but I do not think it would have been honored in the same way.
I was also really shocked to see how many of these detention centers were in full view of ar least some people. And, yes, in the official Nunca Mas report. They mention that they wanted the public to have fear so that they are willing to comply with whatever they are told to do.
Great post, Mia!
I agree, that the central location of ESMA was upsetting. Gabe (or Fernando? I can’t recall) told me that one of the militarios had a house right across the street. His daughter would have her friends over for sleepovers. One of her friends later testified in a trial by talking about the strange sounds they heard right across the way at ESMA. It is an important reminder that inaction is violence.