Almost Home

  When I was 14, I moved from Wyoming to Georgia.  One of my first big memories was of going to the huge markets for the first time and feeling the absolute amazement and slight fear at the vastness and fast pace of the market.  I was so overwhelmed and confused at everything going on around me that I was not fully able to enjoy the markets.

I did not have that crazy feeling yesterday walking through Dublin for the first time.  I was blown away by how not-overwhelmed I was; I became comfortable with the city significantly faster than I had assumed that I would be able to.  Walking through the city just felt like something I could (and potentially should) do single day of my life from now on.  Everyone was so enjoyable, and we were having so much fun.  It became so easy to adopt the city, as well as my company.

A Stranger in the Fog

howth

Today, I took this picture of a stranger in the fog taking in the view from the Howth Cliff Walk. I considered showing it to him, but I realized that 1) he wasn’t speaking English to his hiking partner and might not understand me, and 2) he would probably be really creeped out by a random girl asking if he wanted to see the photo I had just taken of him. So I decided against it, but I wanted to show it to someone because it really captures both how incredible the views from this walk are, and how completely encompassed people are when taking it in. I’ve never seen anything like this in my entire life. I couldn’t believe how endless it seemed both while swallowed by the fog and later on when the skies were completely clear. In the moment we were all looking at the same thing, and whether or not we shared the same emotions about it, we still all stopped to take it in because it was beautiful. I loved everything about Howth today, from the amazing lighthouses in the distance to the late lunch we all got to share together at the Summit Inn after our hike. I also tried Guinness for the first time, and I figure there is literally no better place for that to be done. I’m really surprised how quiet of a city it has been so far. The streets, especially. I love walking down the streets of neighborhoods here and seeing all of the beautiful houses with the moss growing on their walls. It’s a once in a lifetime experience for me, and I’m happier every day that I was lucky enough to come and see this country.

(My feet do kind of hurt but I can’t be mad when everything is this pretty.)

A (Foggy) Meditation on Travel

IMG_1741I am lucky enough to have had a lot of opportunities to travel, and it has caused me to often think about the nature of “the traveler.”  Our discussions on place have brought this idea back to me once again.  I don’t have any good answers, so if that is what you are looking for, you have come to the wrong place (place!).  I thought, though, that I would take this opportunity to voice and perhaps unpack a little some of the pervading questions I have about travel.

I want to start by saying that I love traveling.  I deeply appreciate the opportunity it affords individuals to learn about other people-groups and cultures and to see oneself as part of a much larger whole.  However, I also often feel guilty about travel.  I think it is impossible to visit a new place without engaging in colonization in some small way. Obviously, I don’t feel guilty enough about this to stop exploring, but I do try to be mindful of it as much as possible.  I know that I have a tendency to want to project my own knowledge and understanding onto the culture that I am seeing around me, and I have a feeling that others do the same.

One thing I often catch myself doing is accentuating or exaggerating the similarities.  I take my own, American worldview and project it onto a new place.  “Everywhere has a McDonald’s, which means we are all the same!”  I think what I am really trying to do is find a common ground or a point of similarity, but what I end up doing often is ignoring the unique aspects of a place or culture by trying to force it to fit into what I already understand.  I end up “colonizing” a place by denying its complex history and the relationship it has to its inhabitants.

Or I swing too far in the other direction and idealize a place for being so different.  Yesterday as we walked, I saw into a row of back yards and saw laundry hanging from a line.  At the moment it felt very idyllic; a picture of a simpler life.  But I realized that I am romanticizing someone else’s real life.  Their laundry isn’t on display so that I can think, “Oh how quaint! How picturesque!”  Their laundry is on the line because after a long day of work, they had to come home and do laundry (I recognize that this too is a projection, that I am still attempting to write the laundry owner’s narrative).  So while addressing the fact that everything is not exactly as I already know it, I try to perform the balancing act of not “otherizing” everything by making it either idyllic or mysterious.

Finally, I colonize through my attitude towards other tourists.  I want an authentic experience.  Which, I think, is actually impossible for me to have because I am inherently inauthentic as a visitor.  But I desire to see “real life,” which means that there can’t be any other tourists around.  “Go away, Americans! This is my ‘real Irish pub’ and you are ruining it!”  In my attempts at a unique or authentic experience, I end up laying claim to a place that I have absolutely no claim to.  I am the American tourist.  I am the person I glare at when she or he enters my “secret” spot (usually that I found in a guide book).  So while I often think that tourists are grossly tourist-y and that I want to get off the beaten path, I try to remember that I am an outsider, a visitor, too.  While I may want to go off the beaten path, the people who actually live and work on that path may not want be stomping through it.

So, yeah.  Make of that what you will.  I don’t think there’s a right answer.  Travel is important. And getting off the beaten path sometimes is important too.  But it’s also crucial that I remember that real people with real lives inhabit the places that I visit.  The picture above shows just one small bit of a complex and beautiful landscape, and I try to remember that, even when it’s not foggy, as a visitor this is all I will ever see or understand of a place that I am visiting only temporarily.

Reading the Irish Landscape

In John Montague’s poem “A Lost Tradition,” he refers to the Irish landscape as a text: “The whole landscape a manuscript” (line 34). After reading this poem in class, I started to think of the different mediums and methods in which I experienced the Irish landscape and culture. My “reading” of the Irish landscape today began with a verbal presentation and discussion on theories of place and how these concepts relate to Irish literature
and history. Roaming through the James Joyce Library, I viewed a small selection of Yeats’ manuscripts and letters in glass case on display at the library’s lobby. In between the library and the Newman building, I stumbled upon a passageway with a timeline of Irish history, which provided me with a visual representation of Irish history and the fight for an independent landscape.imageimage

On the cliffs of Howth, I “read” the Irish landscape with each step up to the Summit. The dense, rolling fog over the awe-inspiring cliffs made me think of Rhoda Coghill’s 1903 poem “Runaway” where she writes, “Somebody must tell me something real / and that very quickly. / Someone must show me a thing / that will not disappear when I touch it / or fade into a cloud to walk through” (lines 1-5). Coghill’s poem and the foggy cliffs that I experienced in Howth (specifically the fog’s clearing to reveal Ireland’s Eye) seems connected to the ambiguity and uncertainty of the Easter Rising and the Irish Rebellion: the outcome unclear like Island’s Eye in the dense fog.

Howth—Sailboats and Seafood

Today, we travelled to Howth. It is a coastal city, mostly surrounded by water. It’s not quite an island. Howth is beautiful. Our goal for our journey was to hike along the cliffs along the east coast of the peninsula and eventually end up at the summit. The views were incredible, hard to take in and process. At the summit, we had lunch at a place called Gaffney’s Summit Inn. The seafood was fresh, and the service was exceptional. There’s nothing like reward for a bit of hard work. Our hike wasn’t easy. It seems that people from all over walk along the trail and dine at the pub. Even our server appeared to be from somewhere else in Europe. This little coastal town must attract and entertain tourists year-round. The scenery, views, and climate (at least as we experienced it today) create a welcoming atmosphere, constructing an interesting and diverse place. Howth is a place of destination. It attracts hikers, academics, lovers, and the like. As hunger began to set in, the Summit Inn became an even more attractive destination.

As we finished up lunch and headed down to sea-level, we saw beautiful houses and freshly manicured lawns and shrubbery. Eventually, we found the water’s edge and all sat staring out into the Irish Sea. When we first arrived to the cliffs, I noticed the sailboats harbored in the middle of town. Now, after a long walk and satisfying meal, I contemplate the uses of these boats and the lives of their captains. Howth is a place of occupation. We walked around where the boats were docked, passing piles of empty sea nets and crab cages. I wonder about the day’s catch. Did the day yield a successful bounty or did the fishers return empty-handed and disheartened? The budding greenery encroaching on the sailboats creates an interesting visual representation of the relationship between the natural and the human.

 

Summit Inn—Howth

 

Sailboats in Howth

 

Foghorn Howthorn

It is astounding how different a place Howth was from when we arrived early afternoon and departed late evening. Our arrival was greeted by a fog that made everything past a few hundred feet nonexistent in our minds. Mist swept down from The Summit as we made our ascent to the top. The higher we climbed the more the fog seemed to clear as the sun attempted to make it’s way through the clouds. When we returned to the small town resting at the bottom of the cliff walk it had become a completely different place. You never would have thought a few hours ago the entire harbor was shrouded with a dense fog. I also could not believe how close we were to Ireland’s Eye, which before had been no where insight but now was only a couple hundred kilometers away. I have been extremely grateful for the fortunate weather that I know will not last much longer, but we were very lucky to see such a magnificent place under such unique circumstances. The patterns of nature, while unpredictable, greatly influence one’s perception of place. At first Howth seemed like a mysterious region of Dublin with a dangerous cliff made more perilous by the impeding fog. But after it cleared, the entire town seemed more cheery and a couple seals even poked their heads out in the harbor. While this was the same place regardless of whether or not the sun was shining, my perception and mood was altered by the drastic change in weather. I have to say I like Howth Harbor, rain or shine.

#dubbelgsu

The Irish Eye

#dubbelgsu