“Love, Peace and Happiness…IN Belfast”

“Love, Peace

and Happiness

is this Possible

IN Belfast……?”

These words were plastered on a wall during our walk to Queen’s University Belfast. The street art caught my attention just as I was about to pass by. Illegally graffitied on the city building, the words open up new possibilities for those who might share the same ideologies. It also creates a place of contention for others.

The side an Irish person might fall on the divide between nationalist and unionist would determine how that person would respond to that statement. In Northern Ireland, people tend to lean one of two ways: Irish or British. Our tour guide that led us through Falls Road and Shankill Road told us how the real issue undergirding the Irish Troubles is not religious (i.e. Catholic vs. Protestant) but one about identity—identity found in either Britishness or Irishness.

The neighborhoods in west Belfast are divided by physical location—place of identity. While Falls road houses Catholics (those who identify as Irish), Skankill road houses Protestants (those who embrace their own Britishness). In these neighborhoods, the place constructed through desired identity is even complete with flags that either represent Ireland as a nation or give homage to Britain, revealing Unionist sentiments.

One of the best examples explained to us surrounds an Irishman named Stevie McKeag. In the Protestant are of Skankill, Stevie is decorated and commemorated as a war hero. A mural is displayed boldly in his honor. However, in the Catholic area of Falls road, Stevie is remembered as a murderer of not only those directly involved in the Troubles but innocent civilians. A plaque that commemorates the deaths of innocent people contains at least eight people known to be murdered by Stevie. Those names spanning Dominic O’Connor through Philomena Hanna are said to among his victims—same man, different place.

 

Love Peach and Happiness in Belfast

 

Peace Wall

 

Stevie Topfun McKeag

 

Names of Murdered Civilians

Writing on Walls

Several of my previous blog posts have highlighted written words and paintings on walls: murals of writers and poets and their meaningful words. Murals and writing on walls hold political and cultural importance and meaning everywhere, especially in Belfast. When we first set out on our day trip, we stumbled upon an interesting question posed on the wall: “Love, Peace & Happiness is this possible in Belfast…? Discuss.” Is this possible in any place? Is this possible for humanity? I did not realize the strong implications of these words and how prevalent they are to Belfast’s culture and history. Even though we have discussed these conflicts in class and seen museum exhibits, I was not completely aware of the full extent of the tensions and feuds between Nationalists and Unionists.

During the Black Taxi tour, Pat did a great job at illuminating the past tensions-the Troubles-and the modern conflicts between these two sides. The mural of Stevie Top Gun McKeag had several different meanings depending on the side-a memorial for a valiant hero versus a violent murderer. Then, Pat took us to the peace wall, a physical divider between the two communities. He gave us permanent markers to sign the wall, giving us a chance to write our own names and words on the peace wall. It seems like signing the wall is sign of peace not only in Belfast, but a petition for peace for the whole world. Perhaps, the most important fact of murals and writing on walls is how it holds meaning and it makes people discuss them.

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Roses and Religion

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Today was one of my favorite days of the entire trip so far. The botanical gardens were beautiful. I loved the rose garden some of us visited before the museum the most of all. The museum was also fascinating because it had so many different areas to explore. The art exhibits were by far my favorite. We also had a great lunch, then Jolie and I explored the botanical gardens more. We found a field where a group of men were playing some type of bowling game, and we sat to watch them for a while. They invited us to join and we learned some of the rules, then got to try it ourselves. (Jolie might have been better than me. Whatever.)

Then, we went on our black taxi tour to learn about the troubles and the tumultuous relationship between Catholics and Protestants in Northern Ireland. The tour was really fascinating because our guide was obviously Catholic, and he said he knew some of the people who got murdered or injured throughout the years without peace. I was thinking about how little people can be reduced to when they are defending a place, or an idea like religion. Seeing all of the names of people as young as five years old memorialized because they senselessly died at the hands of a stranger of a different religion puts things more into perspective. I realize it is more complicated than merely religion, but it is difficult to imagine what else could drive people to be so reckless. It is also interesting to think about the parallels in the United States, in terms of people being so defensive about Islam. I loved getting a chance to sign the peace wall as well. Most of the signatures were accompanied by a request for peace and equality, and I wonder how achievable it really is after I learn the brutal history of these places.

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Bye bye Belfast

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I initially thought for my final blog post I would recap my trip as a whole, recounting the good times I had while in Ireland. However, today was such a busy day filled with other things I’d like to mention I am not sure I’ll have the time or space to put much emphasis on the past few weeks I’ve been abroad. The Botanical Gardens are a top event of the day for me, starting with how a very kind Indian lady allowed us to sample corn fritters they had used earlier for a very intricate photo shoot. Despite their coldness they were delicious and I followed this impromptu treat by entering the botanical green house. Small plants, tall plants, spiky plants and soft plants were crammed in every free inch of space within the glass walls and you had to follow a narrow grated path as you made your way through the three different climates. Grape vines hung from white walls and purple flowers stood out amongst the green, and after I could no longer stand the humidity I reemerged into the crisp Irish air. It’s funny how easily I can grow accustomed to cooler weather and forget how unbearable humidity can be especially since I have lived in the south all of my life. Our next stop was the Ulster Museum on the same property as the Botanical Gardens and it also did not let me down in its variety of interesting exhibits. It still blows my mind how almost all museums are free here in Ireland and it is going to be dearly missed when I return to the states. We ended our day trip with a Black Taxi tour of Shankill/Falls road. Despite our cab being white, the tour was more than I expected in content and host. Our tour guide was informative and funny and you would have never guessed he knew the very people he talked to our group about. We are ending the day getting dinner all together, the second to last  meal we will enjoy as a group. I feel lucky to have met everyone who shared this experience with me and I will miss all of you as much as Ireland itself.

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