Half-Mast Flag by the Liffey

After leaving a coffee shop, we wait at a crosswalk. I notice a flag at half-mass. It’s a rainbow flag. Being away from Atlanta for so long has been bizarre. I haven’t been away this long in about ten years. I miss my family. I miss normal life. I missed being able to be around after the hateful tragedy in Orlando last week. The separation of hours between Ireland and Atlanta creates a break in communication—or at least a break in when events normally happen. By the time my wife wakes up in Atlanta, I’ve already finished lunch. When the shooting happened in Orlando, Ireland was mostly asleep. I woke up to news reports and social media, stories of hateful events that seem to horrific to be true.

I love that a place all the way across the ocean would have the respect to stand with those hurting in Orlando. These acts of respect and remembrance connect humanity as we are supposed to be connected. No sort of gesture of respect could ever mend the hurt that those affected by the Orlando shooting feel, but I hope that it offers a feeling of togetherness. So many people lost their lives that night for reasons soaked in hate and bigotry. Seeing the flag at half-mast by the Liffey does work to restore the separateness that often comes with connecting global communities. It also shows that people at home and abroad can stand with those hurting in solidarity and support.

 

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A Peaceful Evening in Sandycove

After the UCD festival, Sara, Jolie, and I ventured out to Sandycove for a relaxing dinner by the seaside. The buzz of the city can be overwhelming at times, navigating through the endless stream of people with the background sound of loud bus horns and chaotic construction. It was nice to spend an evening in a quiet and peaceful area filled with the sea breeze and rhythmic waves. As I looked out over the ocean, my eyes lingered on a quote painted on the wall from James Joyce’s A Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man: “The first faint noise of gently moving water broke the silence, low and faint and whispering.” I felt that this quote nicely embodied my experience of the tranquil atmosphere in Sandycove. It is interesting that in just a few miles a place can drastically change from a bustling city to a quiet seaside town.

I’m also continually enamored with all of the literature and poetry that I see around Dublin. It is everywhere–written on walls, painted into murals, spoken by locals. I will miss being surrounded by a culture that places importance on literary figures, literature, and poetry. When I tell locals in Dublin that I’m here studying literature, they reply by listing their favorite Irish authors and asking about the works that I study. It is different in the States where people ask about the outcome of my studies: “What do you want to do with an English Literature degree?” image

Leopold Bloom, King of Funk

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In the picture above, a self-professed “triple gold equivalent” pop street band is performance bombed by a man in a Leopold Bloom costume on Crown Alley off of Temple Bar in Dublin on Bloomsday. While the street band was quite good, they clearly had nothing on Leopold Bloom. Mr. Bloom, who might have been a bit on the tippling way, spent a solid twenty minutes dancing for the crowd and playing air guitar on his stately cane. The band, for the most   part, seemed amused by his antics, though the lead singer, of course, did not.

 

The first time I saw a musical street performer was in Dublin. This is odd, because I had certainly visited cities before that one. I had even lived in (or in close proximity to) a couple–first Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, which I went to highschool near, and then Burlington, Vermont, where I attended college. I never lived IN the city of Philadelphia, though, and Burlington is Vermont’s equivalent of a city–that is, rather small.

It’s rather interesting to think about what the different types of performers in a city might say about that city. I found Paris had mimes in an abundance in public areas, and the musicians could only really be found in the connecting points between metro stations (though there is one old man who has been lip syncing opera in the same square, day after day, since I was at least the age of twelve). I’ve always gotten a sense that the culture in the more tourist oriented destinations in Paris is largely designed to be exxaggerated in order to more clearly communicated to a diverse audience. the other hand, Dublin seems mostly to be filled with living statues and musicians. Given the city’s tumultuous history with both memorialization and music, this also makes sense. In any case, it’s interesting to see people literally performing the values of the places they live and work in.

 

Mario Mayhem

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It’s interesting how different the places around Dublin are from the rest of the city. Traveling on the Dart it can feel as though you have entered a completely different world instead of just a place that exists a few train stops away. On our free day I went to the furthest southern train stop which is home to a little coastal town called Greystone. People were few and far between and those I did encounter still encompassed the friendly attitude of their Dublin counterparts. However, I enjoyed the quiet solitude as I explored the blustery Irish coast.
Tonight I was able to explore another southern town outside of the city called Sandycove. It was similar to the little town of Bray I visited During my independent excursion in that it was filled with older buildings and quiet streets. Once you reached the coast, though, things begin to get a little livelier. Delicious smells and bustling streets line the coastal strip of restaurants that range from adorable cafes to the higher end fine dining restaurants. We ended up deciding on an Italian restaurant nestled between two other places with stairs leading into a lower dining area that was completely packed. The food was splendid (although it is honestly pretty difficult to mess up Italian) and the atmosphere was quant and authentic. After our meal we looked out into the sea where a light house shone in the distance. Painted on a nearby wall was the ? Symbol from Mario and it was a perfect way to end a delicious Italian meal.

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A Famine and a Flower

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A few days ago we were walking along the River Liffey to get to the Samuel Beckett Bridge, and we passed the famine statues there to commemorate the Great Famine in the 19th century from 1845 to 1849. The statues were designed by Dublin sculptor Rowan Gillespie. The memorial featured a man walking with his too-skinny child draped across his back, a woman with stick legs reaching out for help, and other figures of deathly thin people in motion.

Several of the tour guides have mentioned how poorly the starving Irish people were treated by the government — how so much food was exported when the people in this country were starving to death. The memorial really moved me. There was such a defeated, broken look on the face of the woman in the photo I took. I also loved that someone had placed a bright red flower in her hand. It is such a bright contrast to the darkness of the statues.

The website for the memorial says “No event in history has had a more profound effect on Ireland and the worldwide Irish Community than that of the Great Irish Famine.” More than a million people died and many moved away from Ireland. The population fell from over 20%. We’ve seen a lot of memorials on this trip, especially of figures from the Rising or famous writers. We were only at this one briefly, but it definitely made the biggest impact on me. I can’t imagine feeling like the place you call home and take so much pride in has abandoned you.

Mere Words

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So Karlee got this tattoo the other day and I was incredibly jealous (in a good way).  I kept thinking about how, no matter what, Dublin will always be a part of her.

Our scars and tattoos tell the stories of our life for us.  I have a scar on my face from where I was with my family at Boar’s Tusk, a format volcano a little ways from my hometown, and from that point on Boar’s Tusk became a little piece of my identity.  And not completely in a bad way; the thing that I remember most from that day was the care and worry that my grandpa showed for me.  The rash on my wrist (which I am trying to stop picking at, I promise) will likely scar, so Dublin will become a little piece of my story and it will exist in more than just my memory (I was going to use a picture of my wrist, but I decided that that would be unpleasant to view and for me to post on Instagram).  I’m also hoping to get a tattoo while we are in Belfast (a much better reminder of Ireland than the scar).  I’ve chosen to immortalize this place on my body.