Bloomsday and an Independent Band

On Bloomsday, the day that honors James Joyce’s fictional character Leopold Bloom, a few of us decided to take the day slow. So, we rested up, washed some clothes, and headed out around lunchtime. We had little plans—some miscellaneous gift-buying and partaking in something that at least vaguely relates to Ulysses. Joyce wrote his Ulysses as a story that comprises one day—a long account of what could otherwise be a much shorter story. Others in our group spent the day trying to remap the steps of Harold Bloom’s epic journey. Call me under-ambitious, but my only goal for the day was to find a nice hard-copy edition of Ulysses, purchase it, and commemorate the moment by writing “Purchased on Bloomsday in Dublin, Ireland, 16 June 2016.” Then I, of course, would signed my name. Lorcan Collins, from the 1916 walking tour, implanted this idea in my head earlier in the week. I couldn’t shake the sentiment. I found the exact edition he recommended and did just as planned.

Later, we had lunch then made our way to the square at temple bar, hoping to see people dressed up in period clothing and acting out moments from the novel. Instead, we stumbled upon a band—four-piece, set up with a minimal sound system, playing a free show in the middle of the street. It all might sound gimmicky, except they were really talented. Based out of Dublin, they played all originals. Between songs, the singer would tell parts of the band’s story—how they pursued record labels, how they were consistently rejected, and how they eventually decided to take control of their music. During the last song, someone dressed up for Bloomsday joins the show, dancing along the front of the band in the empty space separating the crowd.

 

Keywest and Joyce

The Beauty of Language

Yesterday we visited the Archaeological wing of the National Museum of Ireland.  One of the main attractions of this museum is the Tara Brooch.  According to Lonely Planet the Tara Brooch, “was crafted around AD700, primarily with white bronze, but with traces of gold, silver, glass, copper, enamel and wire beading, and was used as a clasp for a cloak” (80).  It really is a sight to behold.  What really struck me, though, was a display alongside the Tara Brooch that discussed this style of brooch and how they were made and designed.  The display also showed that often the name of the brooch’s owner was etched into the back.  The written language used in Ireland around this time was called Ogham.  “It is a system of linear symbols cut on either side of, or across, a baseline” (display in the museum).  What’s surprising, though, is that it’s ugly!  These brooches are so beautiful; they are intricately and painstakingly made, and then on the back, they scratched a name into it!  Because Ogham works using lines, the name literally looks like scratches.  It is in such contrast to the delicate artistry of the rest of the brooch.

This caused me to think about our written language now.  When we talk about the written word being beautiful, we are usually talking the content or perhaps the sound.  Rarely do we mean the visual aesthetic of the writing.  Is our language beautiful?  Is it any better aesthetically than Ogham?  I would argue yes, but then again I am probably biased.

Two years ago, on a visit to Brussels, I was able to view an original Gutenberg Bible.  To me, it is beautiful.  I can’t read it, so I am not drawn to the content.  And no one read it aloud, so it wasn’t the sound.  I may have been swayed by its historical significance, especially to me as an avid reader.  But all of that aside, I do actually think that the text itself was beautiful.  I have included a photo so that you can judge for yourself.

Above: Tara Brooch Below: Inscription in Ogham on similar brooch

Above: Tara Brooch
Below: Inscription in Ogham on similar brooch

Left: Stone with Ogham engraving Right: Close-up of Gutenberg Bible

Left: Stone with Ogham engraving
Right: Close-up of Gutenberg Bible

Quernstones

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The rock in the picture above is a quernstone. Fascinating, yeah? Look at all the holes in it. Quernstone’s don’t look the way they do naturally. They’re rather manmade objects–large stones carved into flat shapes to provide a surface to mill grain on. They’ve got a pretty intense history, and variations on the idea they represent can be found all over the world. The British outlawed their use in Scotland in a bid to leave tenant farmers in that country more dependent on their landlords since their landlords were much more likely to be able to afford the more expensive and technologically complex mill. This law has only been repealed in the last decade or so, though I expect there aren’t many Scottish citizens who ran out to carve their own Querns when it was.

 

The particular Quernstone seen above is located in the Irish Museum of Archeology in Dublin. It’s quite interesting to me from a personal perspective because, before seeing this stone, I had no idea whatsoever what a Quernstone was. I had, however, seen one unearthed to much consternation in the farm my family once owned in West Virginia.

 

it was a really glorious hunk of rock, Granite worn through with hundreds of small, equally distributed divets. My grandfather had no idea what it was. He sent it to a friend of his who taught archeology at the university of West Virginia and the friend sent it back. He was baffled, too. Perhaps the rock back home isn’t a quernstone, though it doesn’t look it. It does remind me that the home I’m missing now is a home other people missed before. I don’t even know the Native American tribes that would have inhabited my former home, milling grain on that quernstone my grandfather later unearthed. Have their descendants stopped grieving for the home they’ve lost? Are there neW homes they’re grieving for instead? It can be hard to remember that the joy you’re forgetting losing was made from the joy another lost. Place is funny that way.

Steps Followed Around a City

There are 14 bronze plaques on the streets of Dublin that identify a place where Leopold Bloom visits in Joyce’s Ulysses. The plaques exist physically in place, but also signify a fictive place. As we left the Archeology Museum, I cam me across one of these bronze plaques. On our free day, Sara and I meticulously planned a day that followed the tracks of Stephen Daedalus and Leopold Bloom–a Ulysses pilgrimage. We followed the footsteps of Daedalus in Sandycove, Sandymount, and Dalkey, pretending to dive into the Forty Foot, climbing up the Martello Tower, and walking into eternity on the Strand.image

Later in the afternoon, we followed the steps of Bloom in the city. We bought lemon soap at Sweny’s Chemist on Lincoln Place, enjoyed gorgonzola sandwiches and burgundy at Davy Byrne’s (the combination does not complement one another by the way), and searched for a racy novel around Merchant’s Arch (aka. our own version of Ulysses). After our 13 miles of walking it was nice to relax at the Oval Bar for dinner (also mentioned in the novel).

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We ended the night at an art and poetry party complete with swing dancing and big band music (not quite Edwardian, but still fun). One of my favorite parts of the evening was having a poem written for me. A poet was sitting at a typewriter with a sign that read “Fresh Poems.” After telling the poet about my day, he wrote a poem in about 15 minutes that perfectly captured my experience of Dublin and the concept of place. Here are the first lines of the poem: “Steps followed around a city / As though it were a map, / As though streets can hold stories / Steeped into the brick.”

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Evolution of Place

Visiting a museum that displays artifacts from all over the world in multiple places of time is a great way to observe the evolution of place. The medieval time period for Ireland was filled with vicious Vikings who invaded the island in order to seek further control of European lands. Dublin was especially viewed as an advantageous area because of it’s access to resources and close proximity to the United Kingdom. I was surprised at how small the Viking ship display appeared because I had always envisioned massive boats charging into lands filled with natives who were brutally pillaged and torn from their homes. While I am still certain villagers feared the sight of these ships they were much similar to canoes designed by Native Americans in my opinion. The weaponry for Vikings was really brutal consisting of sharp pointed spearheads that seemed like they could do some real damage to your major arteries. It was really interesting to imagine a Viking hut existing in the exact place where I sleep at night on UCD campus, and how different the land must have looked when Vikings called it home. Walking through the Medieval Irish displays I instantly spotted the infamous harp that is a symbol across Irish culture to this day. Originating from Gaelic/Celtic culture this emblem is one of the oldest symbols from Irish history. After also having the chance to view the Book of Kells earlier on this trip, the Medieval Irish Exhibit helped tie together the history of Ireland and the clashing cultures/societies that occurred in the same place.

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#dubbelgsu

Here

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I originally took this picture because I was joking with Karlee about her being a self-proclaimed “selfie queen”, so I decided to take my own selfie.  The more I looked at the picture though, the more that I though that it could, been taken almost anywhere.  This is silly, but it hasn’t occurred to me, or at least I had not fully realized, that I stay the same no matter where I am; it’s still me.  I fell like over time I have created separate existences in my separate places, and it is always weird to me when they intermingle.  I was messaging my partner earlier and I felt off, but I couldn’t figure out why, but I think that this is it.  I hadn’t accommodated for them in this sphere of my existence.  Whenever I am in Wyoming, I never think of my Georgia friends, and vice versa.  But I am the same person.  Right now I have a partner, and they exist in every sphere of my existence.  I have a best friend that is not static in her place, but is also moving throughout time.  My parents and sister will change and develop no matter my location.  This is ridiculous, I know, but this is one of the moments where the world became more dynamic for me.  I changed because of a selfie.