Seeing vs Knowing

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Our time in Dublin is coming to an end, and I have to say that I am sad about it. Earlier, I wrote about moving in to my room and making a temporary home here. Now it is time to pack up all of the items I put on display, and to take down and fold all of the clothes I had so carefully hung up. Yesterday we spent the day on UCD campus, and then a few of us went to Sandycove for dinner. Just as I was feeling like I was getting the hang of this city, I realized that there is so much more to see! Spending additional time on campus yesterday, I was struck by all the things I hadn’t done. At the beginning of out trip, I was so sure that I would get to everything, and despite running on fumes, I failed to do that. I felt similarly about Sandycove. Kristin and I had gone here on our Bloomsday adventures, and I thought we had seen most of it. This time, however, we accidentally walked out of the train station in the opposite direction, and what an advantageous mistake that was! We discovered some amazing restaurants and a beautiful beach and pier. Although I am very much missing my loved ones at home, I am also sorry to be leaving Dublin so soon. Part of me wants to come back as soon as possible, but I also know there is a great wide world out there just waiting to be explored.
I have had many opportunities to travel, but I have rarely stayed for very long. I have visited many places but have known very few. With one short life to live and a world to see, I wonder which is better.

To leave UCD.

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I’m not totally certain if it comes across well, but this is my mostly loaded suitcase for our journey to Belfast in the morning.

Time is hard for me.  Months will feel like days and hours will take weeks to pass, it seems.  I didn’t actually notice that this was my reality until I went about half of a year without talking to my mom without even realizing that I had been without her (which wouldn’t be an issue except that it is really hard to explain to a parent that you don’t miss them, but in a nice way).  Or when I realize that I lost a dear family friend about seven years ago, even though it’s hard to remember being without him.  So this last week or so in Dublin have felt like my entire life, and right now it is hard for me to fully comprehend that I am about to leave this place, possibly forever.

Having this messed up notion of time really screws with my place connectedness.  When I am in Wyoming, Wyoming is the only place that I feel attached to, and vice versa with Georgia.  Having this non-attachment due to never actually feeling loss leads to Hogwarts feeling as real to me, sometimes, as my hometown.

Yeats

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On Wednesday, we visited the National Library of Ireland to see Yeats: The Life and Work of William Butler Yeats. I thought the exhibition was really great. There were so many cool pieces included, and he is an author I knew very little about before going in, so it was cool to get to learn more about his life and legacy. This is also part of my issue. A few of us were discussing how Yeats was pretty problematic in his life. He supported eugenics (to be fair, it was before World War II, so the same implications may not really apply like they might today), and he spent a lot of time pursuing a woman who had completely, repetitively rejected him. I know that may seem “common,” but it sounds exactly like the same kind of guy I would actively avoid in real life. I could be mistaken, but I believe he actually ended up marrying the woman’s daughter or granddaughter. He’s like an ancient Woody Allen. (Jokes, kind of.)

Speaking of Woody Allen, I am a really huge fan of his movies, but I know he’s a deeply problematic man. I was thinking about how we are supposed to separate the author from the work, and how difficult it is to view their works in the same light when we learn how problematic they might have been in their life. I don’t know what the right answer is. Can I watch Annie Hall or Manhattan and not think about the strange connection between Allen’s character and his apparent real life persona? Can I read Yeats’ love poems and not cringe because I am aware of who his likely object of affection is?

A Peaceful Evening in Sandycove

After the UCD festival, Sara, Jolie, and I ventured out to Sandycove for a relaxing dinner by the seaside. The buzz of the city can be overwhelming at times, navigating through the endless stream of people with the background sound of loud bus horns and chaotic construction. It was nice to spend an evening in a quiet and peaceful area filled with the sea breeze and rhythmic waves. As I looked out over the ocean, my eyes lingered on a quote painted on the wall from James Joyce’s A Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man: “The first faint noise of gently moving water broke the silence, low and faint and whispering.” I felt that this quote nicely embodied my experience of the tranquil atmosphere in Sandycove. It is interesting that in just a few miles a place can drastically change from a bustling city to a quiet seaside town.

I’m also continually enamored with all of the literature and poetry that I see around Dublin. It is everywhere–written on walls, painted into murals, spoken by locals. I will miss being surrounded by a culture that places importance on literary figures, literature, and poetry. When I tell locals in Dublin that I’m here studying literature, they reply by listing their favorite Irish authors and asking about the works that I study. It is different in the States where people ask about the outcome of my studies: “What do you want to do with an English Literature degree?” image

Dublin downpour

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I find it pretty appropriate our last day in Dublin would be rainy and dreary. We arrived with ideal, sunny (and rare) weather that we were lucky to enjoy for a majority of our trip. It seems as though Dublin is almost mourning our departure with the arrival of such undesirable but typical weather for this city. Throughout our trip in both our readings and excursions we have referred to Dublin as more of a person than a place, and I think the weather has helped to further this idea. Going from bright and welcoming to cold and gray Dublin seems to transition alongside our groups journey. I am really looking forward to exploring Belfast in the remainder of our time in Ireland, but I know Dublin will be greatly missed as I have grown to love and understand the city beyond the realms of your typical tourist. The places we have seen while here have really captured the evolution of this very old town. While UCD has been around for a while, the current location of the university is much more modern compared to majority of the city. One local referred to it as an “Americanized” campus and I find that label to be pretty appropriate. However, most places have a clash of old and new architecture in place. The Dublin Castle is a great example of a symbolic marriage between the old and new. While many of the stone structures still stand, the entirety of the original castle does not remain intact. I noticed there is large amount of construction all across town with new apartments and a tram springing up, which reminds me a lot of my hometown Atlanta. In Dublin, though, you can still turn a corner and see some of the most beautiful architecture which unfortunately is few and far between nowadays in Georgia. There are some things I will depart Ireland regretting I was unable to do, like visit the Cliffs of Moher or spend more time in parts of the city that aren’t Temple Bar. All this means is that I now have an excuse to come back to Ireland and drag some loved ones along. When I was growing up I knew I wanted to travel and Ireland was never a place that was on my top list and after visiting I’m not sure why I skimmed over such a beautiful place.

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Leopold Bloom, King of Funk

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In the picture above, a self-professed “triple gold equivalent” pop street band is performance bombed by a man in a Leopold Bloom costume on Crown Alley off of Temple Bar in Dublin on Bloomsday. While the street band was quite good, they clearly had nothing on Leopold Bloom. Mr. Bloom, who might have been a bit on the tippling way, spent a solid twenty minutes dancing for the crowd and playing air guitar on his stately cane. The band, for the most   part, seemed amused by his antics, though the lead singer, of course, did not.

 

The first time I saw a musical street performer was in Dublin. This is odd, because I had certainly visited cities before that one. I had even lived in (or in close proximity to) a couple–first Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, which I went to highschool near, and then Burlington, Vermont, where I attended college. I never lived IN the city of Philadelphia, though, and Burlington is Vermont’s equivalent of a city–that is, rather small.

It’s rather interesting to think about what the different types of performers in a city might say about that city. I found Paris had mimes in an abundance in public areas, and the musicians could only really be found in the connecting points between metro stations (though there is one old man who has been lip syncing opera in the same square, day after day, since I was at least the age of twelve). I’ve always gotten a sense that the culture in the more tourist oriented destinations in Paris is largely designed to be exxaggerated in order to more clearly communicated to a diverse audience. the other hand, Dublin seems mostly to be filled with living statues and musicians. Given the city’s tumultuous history with both memorialization and music, this also makes sense. In any case, it’s interesting to see people literally performing the values of the places they live and work in.

 

The Beauty of Language

Yesterday we visited the Archaeological wing of the National Museum of Ireland.  One of the main attractions of this museum is the Tara Brooch.  According to Lonely Planet the Tara Brooch, “was crafted around AD700, primarily with white bronze, but with traces of gold, silver, glass, copper, enamel and wire beading, and was used as a clasp for a cloak” (80).  It really is a sight to behold.  What really struck me, though, was a display alongside the Tara Brooch that discussed this style of brooch and how they were made and designed.  The display also showed that often the name of the brooch’s owner was etched into the back.  The written language used in Ireland around this time was called Ogham.  “It is a system of linear symbols cut on either side of, or across, a baseline” (display in the museum).  What’s surprising, though, is that it’s ugly!  These brooches are so beautiful; they are intricately and painstakingly made, and then on the back, they scratched a name into it!  Because Ogham works using lines, the name literally looks like scratches.  It is in such contrast to the delicate artistry of the rest of the brooch.

This caused me to think about our written language now.  When we talk about the written word being beautiful, we are usually talking the content or perhaps the sound.  Rarely do we mean the visual aesthetic of the writing.  Is our language beautiful?  Is it any better aesthetically than Ogham?  I would argue yes, but then again I am probably biased.

Two years ago, on a visit to Brussels, I was able to view an original Gutenberg Bible.  To me, it is beautiful.  I can’t read it, so I am not drawn to the content.  And no one read it aloud, so it wasn’t the sound.  I may have been swayed by its historical significance, especially to me as an avid reader.  But all of that aside, I do actually think that the text itself was beautiful.  I have included a photo so that you can judge for yourself.

Above: Tara Brooch Below: Inscription in Ogham on similar brooch

Above: Tara Brooch
Below: Inscription in Ogham on similar brooch

Left: Stone with Ogham engraving Right: Close-up of Gutenberg Bible

Left: Stone with Ogham engraving
Right: Close-up of Gutenberg Bible

Mario Mayhem

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It’s interesting how different the places around Dublin are from the rest of the city. Traveling on the Dart it can feel as though you have entered a completely different world instead of just a place that exists a few train stops away. On our free day I went to the furthest southern train stop which is home to a little coastal town called Greystone. People were few and far between and those I did encounter still encompassed the friendly attitude of their Dublin counterparts. However, I enjoyed the quiet solitude as I explored the blustery Irish coast.
Tonight I was able to explore another southern town outside of the city called Sandycove. It was similar to the little town of Bray I visited During my independent excursion in that it was filled with older buildings and quiet streets. Once you reached the coast, though, things begin to get a little livelier. Delicious smells and bustling streets line the coastal strip of restaurants that range from adorable cafes to the higher end fine dining restaurants. We ended up deciding on an Italian restaurant nestled between two other places with stairs leading into a lower dining area that was completely packed. The food was splendid (although it is honestly pretty difficult to mess up Italian) and the atmosphere was quant and authentic. After our meal we looked out into the sea where a light house shone in the distance. Painted on a nearby wall was the ? Symbol from Mario and it was a perfect way to end a delicious Italian meal.

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Quernstones

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The rock in the picture above is a quernstone. Fascinating, yeah? Look at all the holes in it. Quernstone’s don’t look the way they do naturally. They’re rather manmade objects–large stones carved into flat shapes to provide a surface to mill grain on. They’ve got a pretty intense history, and variations on the idea they represent can be found all over the world. The British outlawed their use in Scotland in a bid to leave tenant farmers in that country more dependent on their landlords since their landlords were much more likely to be able to afford the more expensive and technologically complex mill. This law has only been repealed in the last decade or so, though I expect there aren’t many Scottish citizens who ran out to carve their own Querns when it was.

 

The particular Quernstone seen above is located in the Irish Museum of Archeology in Dublin. It’s quite interesting to me from a personal perspective because, before seeing this stone, I had no idea whatsoever what a Quernstone was. I had, however, seen one unearthed to much consternation in the farm my family once owned in West Virginia.

 

it was a really glorious hunk of rock, Granite worn through with hundreds of small, equally distributed divets. My grandfather had no idea what it was. He sent it to a friend of his who taught archeology at the university of West Virginia and the friend sent it back. He was baffled, too. Perhaps the rock back home isn’t a quernstone, though it doesn’t look it. It does remind me that the home I’m missing now is a home other people missed before. I don’t even know the Native American tribes that would have inhabited my former home, milling grain on that quernstone my grandfather later unearthed. Have their descendants stopped grieving for the home they’ve lost? Are there neW homes they’re grieving for instead? It can be hard to remember that the joy you’re forgetting losing was made from the joy another lost. Place is funny that way.

A Famine and a Flower

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A few days ago we were walking along the River Liffey to get to the Samuel Beckett Bridge, and we passed the famine statues there to commemorate the Great Famine in the 19th century from 1845 to 1849. The statues were designed by Dublin sculptor Rowan Gillespie. The memorial featured a man walking with his too-skinny child draped across his back, a woman with stick legs reaching out for help, and other figures of deathly thin people in motion.

Several of the tour guides have mentioned how poorly the starving Irish people were treated by the government — how so much food was exported when the people in this country were starving to death. The memorial really moved me. There was such a defeated, broken look on the face of the woman in the photo I took. I also loved that someone had placed a bright red flower in her hand. It is such a bright contrast to the darkness of the statues.

The website for the memorial says “No event in history has had a more profound effect on Ireland and the worldwide Irish Community than that of the Great Irish Famine.” More than a million people died and many moved away from Ireland. The population fell from over 20%. We’ve seen a lot of memorials on this trip, especially of figures from the Rising or famous writers. We were only at this one briefly, but it definitely made the biggest impact on me. I can’t imagine feeling like the place you call home and take so much pride in has abandoned you.