Leaving UCD

For the past two weeks, I have called University College Dublin home. It has been a comfortable place—one of learning, making new friends, and resting from long days around Dublin and the surrounding areas. We all had our own rooms, but we shared a kitchen and living space. Often, I would find someone in one of the chair eating porridge or by the counter making a much-needed cup of coffee. Other times, I might would find someone reading or getting ready to teach a lesson to the rest of the class. It became a comfortable place for me. My room became a place for me to escape to recharge from the expense of social activity. More specifically, over the past few days, my room has become a place where I can rest to try to get over an Irish cold (not really sure how that descriptor might change the meaning).

The common area became a place where we could share about our day. Sara and Kristen told us all about their travels to Sandcove and their remapping of Bloomsday. I would tell others about events that happened when they weren’t around. Whether secluded in my private room or in the common area, our flat at UCD became a safe space. UCD has a beautiful campus. Much of our time was spent traveling to Dublin or meeting in our classroom, but one day we had a chance to spend the whole day on campus. We had lunch on the lawn, served by a handful of food trucks. Then we headed to see a couple of dramatic performances—“Strolling Through Ulysses” and “The Lime Tree Bower.” Both were professional and moving for me.

 

UCD

Half-Mast Flag by the Liffey

After leaving a coffee shop, we wait at a crosswalk. I notice a flag at half-mass. It’s a rainbow flag. Being away from Atlanta for so long has been bizarre. I haven’t been away this long in about ten years. I miss my family. I miss normal life. I missed being able to be around after the hateful tragedy in Orlando last week. The separation of hours between Ireland and Atlanta creates a break in communication—or at least a break in when events normally happen. By the time my wife wakes up in Atlanta, I’ve already finished lunch. When the shooting happened in Orlando, Ireland was mostly asleep. I woke up to news reports and social media, stories of hateful events that seem to horrific to be true.

I love that a place all the way across the ocean would have the respect to stand with those hurting in Orlando. These acts of respect and remembrance connect humanity as we are supposed to be connected. No sort of gesture of respect could ever mend the hurt that those affected by the Orlando shooting feel, but I hope that it offers a feeling of togetherness. So many people lost their lives that night for reasons soaked in hate and bigotry. Seeing the flag at half-mast by the Liffey does work to restore the separateness that often comes with connecting global communities. It also shows that people at home and abroad can stand with those hurting in solidarity and support.

 

Rainbow Flag

The crew.

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I’m not the best at making friends, it’s just never been a skill that I’ve cultivated, but people are part of what makes a place more than just space.  Florida is important to me because that’s where my best friend lives.  There’s a Target in Atlanta that will forever be where I had my first date with my current partner.

Ireland and Northern Ireland are much better for me because of you guys.  I would have never assumed that my trip would be so ingrained with such little, yet amazing, things.  Like every coffee shop where I got to see the work of the Selfie Queen, walking against the wind and seeing Randall’s beard part around his face, talking about tofu with Kristin, hearing a symphony whenever Harlow are or drank anything, being in absolute awe over Jolie’s confidence, and witnessing Sara’s professional style every day.  It would have been so easy for us to all just split up and do whatever we want on our own, but we always seem to make sure to get back together.

Thanks guys.

Bloomsday and an Independent Band

On Bloomsday, the day that honors James Joyce’s fictional character Leopold Bloom, a few of us decided to take the day slow. So, we rested up, washed some clothes, and headed out around lunchtime. We had little plans—some miscellaneous gift-buying and partaking in something that at least vaguely relates to Ulysses. Joyce wrote his Ulysses as a story that comprises one day—a long account of what could otherwise be a much shorter story. Others in our group spent the day trying to remap the steps of Harold Bloom’s epic journey. Call me under-ambitious, but my only goal for the day was to find a nice hard-copy edition of Ulysses, purchase it, and commemorate the moment by writing “Purchased on Bloomsday in Dublin, Ireland, 16 June 2016.” Then I, of course, would signed my name. Lorcan Collins, from the 1916 walking tour, implanted this idea in my head earlier in the week. I couldn’t shake the sentiment. I found the exact edition he recommended and did just as planned.

Later, we had lunch then made our way to the square at temple bar, hoping to see people dressed up in period clothing and acting out moments from the novel. Instead, we stumbled upon a band—four-piece, set up with a minimal sound system, playing a free show in the middle of the street. It all might sound gimmicky, except they were really talented. Based out of Dublin, they played all originals. Between songs, the singer would tell parts of the band’s story—how they pursued record labels, how they were consistently rejected, and how they eventually decided to take control of their music. During the last song, someone dressed up for Bloomsday joins the show, dancing along the front of the band in the empty space separating the crowd.

 

Keywest and Joyce

Flags

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Theres something I’ve always found

interesting about the way that national flags are used differently by different cultures and viewed differently by different cultures. This can be how the flags of the different culture in question is being used or how the flags of alien cultures are treated by that culture. I think it says a lot about how a civilization views it’s place in the global landscape.

 

Above can be seen one of the other students in this class. They are waiting for a bus. Above them, high above, a single Irish flag hangs limply in the rain, rolled into itself several times. It’s a rather sad picture for our last day in Dublin and the Republic of Ireland, and not one that is an entirely accurate  portrayal of the attitude of treatment of their flag that I observed among the people of Ireland.

 

While there wasn’t a flag on every house and business, as you might see in the United States, the flag of Ireland was still quite conspicuously flown on many properties throughout the city of Dublin. So, too, were the orange, white, and green colors of that flag present on everything from clothes to wallpaper. As we explored the city, I was left with the definite impression that the Irish were proud to be Irish and ready to declare that pride to anyone who would listen.

Interestingly, the British Union Jack was occasionally flown in panoplies of UN flags in the city, as well. This was not the most popular move, I came to find out, with one of our tour guides in Dublin, adorned with an orange/white/green lapel pin indicating his allegiance to the sin feinne political party, pointing to a Union Jack in Dublin Castle and stating he never thought he’d live to see the day the British national flag flew in Dublin Castle once again.

Diversity in Other Cultures

imageIn the picture above can be seen a number of Irish visitors or citizens of Japanese descent playing Japanese taiko, or drums, at a festival on the green of University College Dublin.

Japan and Ireland actually have a fairly developed history of cultural exchange, despite the vast distance that separated them. Irish artists of the last century or so have been influenced  by Japanese aesthetic principles and mention of Japanese cultural products cannot be seen in quite a few important Irish artistic products, including the poetry of WB Yeats.

Nor is the exchange entirely one sided, especially in the modern era. A number of important contemporary Irish and Northern Irish artists have visited Japan to work, and products of Irish culture can occasionally be seen there as well.

Even as a fairly well traveled American, I often find myself centralizing the way the world functions around my home in the United States. I consistently think of individuals who originate from other cultures by terms such as “African American” or “Japanese American,” for instance, which not only fails to properly credit the right of other people to my nation (as a “white” or “Caucasian,” my citizenship does not, apparently, have to be affirmed by my title and is instead assumed), but also limits individuals of such heritages from existing as citizens of other nations. When I was an undergraduate student, for instance, I had a roommate who was British of Ghana  descent. I still called him African American until one day he politely corrected me: “I’m just British, mate. That’s all you need to say.”

 

 

The Story of the Titanic


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Yesterday we arrived in Belfast and began our visit with a tour of City Hall.  Belfast was once a very financially successful city because of its ship building industry, and as we learned on the tour, the most famous ship built in Belfast was the Titanic.  What really struck me on the tour yesterday was the narrative the city has created around the story of the Titanic.  This narrative has two parts: pride in building the ship and the tragedy of lives lost.  What is noticeably absent is the middle part, that is, the mistakes and oversights that went into the design and equipping of the ship and who was to blame.  In City Hall, they have a ballroom specifically dedicated to the Titanic with two larger than life portraits of the owners of the ship.  One might expect that they would be blamed in imagepart for the great tragedy, but not in Belfast.

The creation of this narrative reminds me of the way we discuss the Civil War south of the Mason-Dixon.  We struggle to honor the dead while balancing the knowledge that the south was in the wrong and that they lost the war.  The narratives are different, but they both speak to the way people tell the stories of their place.  Outside of Belfast, people often focus on the mistakes that were made in crafting the ship, just like outside of southern America, people define confederate soldiers as pure villains.  Here in Belfast, however, the building of the ship is a great source of pride.  It was the largest man-made vessel ever designed.  It was beautiful with intricate wood-work and excellent craftsmanship throughout. They consistently honor the men who built it.  This is balanced by the imagetragedy of its sinking.  They also have erected memorials to those lost and to those who showed great bravery.  It important here that they create a story that glorifies the work and pays tribute to the dead.  They erase the embarrassment of the ship’s great failing.

We might expect that we will get the “real story” when we go to a place where an important event took place.  However, it seems that this may be the least likely place to get to the truth of the matter.  People here still have a very personal connection to the Titanic; perhaps an ancestor worked on the ship or helped build it.  Because of this the story is much more carefully crafted, the stream is diverted away from embarrassment or blame, than it is in the greater world.

Welcome to belfast // welcome summer

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I could not believe our luck to arrive in Belfast and have sublime weather yet again! It seems as though every time we travel somewhere new we are greeted by the sun and fluffy white clouds. Belfast is a lot different from Dublin and although I have only been here a day I find it very enjoyable. The city is surrounded by green rolling hills and mountains that are visible regardless of where you are. Another notable difference is the lack of people bustling through the streets or rambunctious groups of tourists (not unlike ourselves) occupying the entire sidewalk. You are free to walk the sidewalks and roam the streets with only space, quiet and the ocean breeze beside you. We covered a lot of ground today and were able to make it all the way to the Titanic exhibit. Along our route we saw many cute cafes, bars and shops that lined the streets straight up to the canal. The sun warmed everything up as locals stripped away their layers and soaked up the rare rays of light. Walking the streets it hit me that it is summer vacation. That sounds like a strange thought to have in late June, but the last few weeks have been filled with weather that has hardly broken 60 degrees. Yesterday was the first day of summer and it is hard for to grasp we are in the hottest months of the year. In Atlanta I am used to sweating bullets the second I leave the haven of air conditioning, but here I contemplate the number of socks I can spare to wear while still having a good number that are clean. Belfast may have welcomed us with beautiful weather but it still doesn’t remind of the hot summers I experience back home in Atlanta.

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#dubbelgsu

 

 

My Heart Will Go Onto Belfast

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Yesterday was our last full day in Dublin. We came to Belfast early this morning and immediately started a new, full day here. I was honestly a little disappointed to be leaving Dublin yesterday, because I loved it so much. I loved most of the people I met (apart from the people participating in some sort of solstice last night that Sara and I encountered), I loved the food we ate, I loved University College Dublin’s beautiful, wide campus, I loved all of the time we shared together as a class. I wasn’t sure that things would be as much fun here in Belfast as they were there, mostly because the rooming situation was changing, and we weren’t having class every morning. I also didn’t know what to expect when I got here. I don’t know much about Belfast. I knew even less about it this morning.
Thankfully, we had an amazing first meal here, then a really great tour of Belfast City Hall. I was amazed by the inside of every room. The architecture was beautiful. The windows were amazing. My favorite room we visited was where the City Council meets. It was beautiful, filled with several large portraits of important political figures in the city’s history. I also thought it was incredible that the seats we were sitting on were designed by the same designer that carved pieces for the Titanic.
After the tour, most of us went on a (long) walk to see the Titanic Museum. It was closed, but we really wanted to see the life-sized outline of the actual ship behind the building. At the end of the ship outline was a beautiful view of the River Lagan. The walk there and back had incredible sights to see, mostly of the river. I’m really glad that I didn’t judge Belfast too soon, because I really love it here.

PS I would like compliments about my Titanic reference in the title, thanks.

titanic

Following the Brick Roads

It was our last full day in Dublin–a rainy, dim day with strong gusts of wind. The Chester Beatty exhibitions gave us a brief shelter from the rain and wind. Outside the Chester Beatty Library, we encountered some beautiful gardens with elaborate flowers and hedges. The middle lawn area had converging concentric lines of brick pathways. I watched as about half the class wandered in the garden lawn, following the brick lines step by step. Observing their progression through the gardens, I started to think of our own trek around Dublin and reflect on our steps through the city. We wandered around the streets in a single file line or sometimes in pairs, experiencing Dublin and creating our own memories.

Throughout our excursions through the streets of Dublin, we have been following Google Maps, tourist maps, tour guides, local recommendations, each other, and bus/rail lines. Like following the bricks lines in Chester Beatty gardens, we have mirrored the footsteps of past memories, historic events, and literary imaginations. These conceptions of place have shaped our directions and footpaths through the city, influencing what we see and where we go.

I’m interested to see what we will experience and where we will go in Belfast. What paths will we follow? How will they shape our conceptions of the Irish culture? As my solo-trip to Scotland approaches, I’m getting excited about making my own experiences and memories; I wonder what paths I will follow and where my travels will take me. It will be an adventure!image