As our trip comes to a close, I thought I would end with a couple of final reflections about traveling. I began this set of posts with some big questions about visiting new places. I still don’t have any answers for those, but I have had a couple of other realizations about travel in general, and I thought that this would be a good time to review them. I have always found travel important; it teaches you new things and gets you out of your comfort zone. These are the reasons for travel we hear over and over, and I certainly agree with them. But I have realized this time that for me, travel teaches me something about myself by requiring me to be adaptable. As I grow older, I grow more and more comfortable in my life. I know what I like and what I don’t like. I know how to move through my day without too much traction. When I was planning for this trip, I tried to find ways to maintain all of this comfort. How would I keep my hair looking perfect? How would I stay dry, comfortable, and stylish all at the same time? I couldn’t. But that’s okay. When we say that travel forces you out of your “comfort zone,” I usually think of it in the sense that travel forces you to try new things – to eat something exotic or do something dangerous and exciting. This time, however, I realized
that leaving your comfort zone can also just mean adapting to new surroundings and modes of living. So my hair is flat. So what? My feet hurt. That’s the new normal! If one embraces it, it doesn’t take long to learn to adapt from one form of comfortable to another. Sometimes people don’t do this, and I think it greatly reduces the quality of the traveling experience. Belfast is a relatively small place, and the circle of tourists is even smaller. I have crossed paths multiple times with a mother and adult daughter who have found it difficult to adapt. Every time I see them or hear them, they are complaining and they look miserable. Okay, so her hair looks better than mine, but the scowl on her face ruins the rest of it! Adapting is an essential part of travel, and the more comfortable I become at home, the more important I find it to be uncomfortable sometimes. Adaptability is a muscle that needs to be stretched and worked or it can quickly become atrophied
White Rooms and Feminine Representation in the Literary Canon
At the Hugh Lane Museum of Modern Art, Jesse Jones has an exhibit entitled No More Fun and Games. NMFG intends “to redress and renegotiate omissions in the historical canon of art.” This presentation is not a static piece, as we might assume of other pieces of art. Instead, Jones creates a dynamic experience for on-lookers. Her project seems to deal with minimalist ideas concerning the negative space of female representation in canonized art.
At first, the exhibition is confusing. The front desk of the show opens into a small room and then a large, white room. Jones includes speakers that play soft, soothing music, mounted on stands that face in all directions create an erratic pattern throughout the room. The huge walls, white and bare, create an eerie feeling of absence. After all, an art show should have drawings, photos, or paintings on the wall, right? The white room gives way to a room that has silver walls, reminiscent of aluminum foil or the industrial freezers we might see at a restaurant. In this room, Jones includes a few paintings, but still the inclusion is minimal.
Jones drags a floor-to-ceiling piece of cloth attached to a track overhead. It provides the image of woman’s arm and hand. I stand in the room and wait to see the impression it casts into the large white room. The cloth overlays the feminine over the represented absence of the empty walls. The experience moves me. Jones seems to be arguing that the work of women colors all art, even in places that may not seem to contain such art. She also creates a stark contrast between the blank walls of the white room and the obscurely reflective walls of the silver room, the first containing no art and the second housing only a few pieces.
The underrepresented nature of minority artists in cultural canons comes into focus through the work of Jones. As we discuss the importance of women in the politics surround Irish independent, we still understand how women are subtracted from the general discussion.
“Love, Peace and Happiness…IN Belfast”
“Love, Peace
and Happiness
is this Possible
IN Belfast……?”
These words were plastered on a wall during our walk to Queen’s University Belfast. The street art caught my attention just as I was about to pass by. Illegally graffitied on the city building, the words open up new possibilities for those who might share the same ideologies. It also creates a place of contention for others.
The side an Irish person might fall on the divide between nationalist and unionist would determine how that person would respond to that statement. In Northern Ireland, people tend to lean one of two ways: Irish or British. Our tour guide that led us through Falls Road and Shankill Road told us how the real issue undergirding the Irish Troubles is not religious (i.e. Catholic vs. Protestant) but one about identity—identity found in either Britishness or Irishness.
The neighborhoods in west Belfast are divided by physical location—place of identity. While Falls road houses Catholics (those who identify as Irish), Skankill road houses Protestants (those who embrace their own Britishness). In these neighborhoods, the place constructed through desired identity is even complete with flags that either represent Ireland as a nation or give homage to Britain, revealing Unionist sentiments.
One of the best examples explained to us surrounds an Irishman named Stevie McKeag. In the Protestant are of Skankill, Stevie is decorated and commemorated as a war hero. A mural is displayed boldly in his honor. However, in the Catholic area of Falls road, Stevie is remembered as a murderer of not only those directly involved in the Troubles but innocent civilians. A plaque that commemorates the deaths of innocent people contains at least eight people known to be murdered by Stevie. Those names spanning Dominic O’Connor through Philomena Hanna are said to among his victims—same man, different place.
Arriving in Belfast, Northern Ireland
The move from Dublin to Belfast was quick. When we arrived in the new city, we went straightway from our bus to the hotel that would be home for the next few nights. Our hotel has all the necessities we need. Instead of having private rooms, we share rooms with other students. Harlow and I share a room.
We take a walk down to city hall and have an informative tour led by a jolly Irishman. He walks us through rooms where city operations still take place. He describes portraits that hang from walls and robes mounted in display cases. He describes what would take place in each room.
After the tour of city hall, we are free to walk around and explore. We decide to make our way to the Titanic museum. The walk is beautiful. We cross over the channel where locks allow boats to pass in and out. A couple boats wait anchored for the lock to fill and allow safe passage. So much of this city’s identity is wrapped up in industries dependent on its coastal nature.
We eventually make it down to where the Titanic would have been constructed and experienced its cast away from land. We walk the length of the ship and gaze out over the bay. We sit in silence until approaching rain clouds push us back to our feet and onward to dinner. Our group has grown comfortable together. Awkwardness of old has all but disappeared, and we now function as a group of old friends.
Writing on Walls
Several of my previous blog posts have highlighted written words and paintings on walls: murals of writers and poets and their meaningful words. Murals and writing on walls hold political and cultural importance and meaning everywhere, especially in Belfast. When we first set out on our day trip, we stumbled upon an interesting question posed on the wall: “Love, Peace & Happiness is this possible in Belfast…? Discuss.” Is this possible in any place? Is this possible for humanity? I did not realize the strong implications of these words and how prevalent they are to Belfast’s culture and history. Even though we have discussed these conflicts in class and seen museum exhibits, I was not completely aware of the full extent of the tensions and feuds between Nationalists and Unionists.
During the Black Taxi tour, Pat did a great job at illuminating the past tensions-the Troubles-and the modern conflicts between these two sides. The mural of Stevie Top Gun McKeag had several different meanings depending on the side-a memorial for a valiant hero versus a violent murderer. Then, Pat took us to the peace wall, a physical divider between the two communities. He gave us permanent markers to sign the wall, giving us a chance to write our own names and words on the peace wall. It seems like signing the wall is sign of peace not only in Belfast, but a petition for peace for the whole world. Perhaps, the most important fact of murals and writing on walls is how it holds meaning and it makes people discuss them.
This place, these people
Today was our free day. Jolie, Kristen, Sara, Randall, Harlow, and I went on a tour to see Giant’s Causeway with several stops in between our final destination. It was breathtaking, and probably some of the best things I’ve gotten to see on this entire trip. After seeing a castle for about twenty minutes, we took a two hour trip or so to get to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. This was my favorite stop of the day by far. The views were gorgeous, and the bridge was only half as terrifying as I thought it might be when I saw pictures of it yesterday. We got to spend time looking around, too.
After a stop for lunch, we finally made it to the Giant’s Causeway. My second picture is from there. Luckily, the weather was really great all day. Our tour guide was charming (save for the fact that he played Coldplay’s entire discography on our way to the rope bridge), and he told us funny and interesting stories about the areas around us on our way to see these attractions.
I love Belfast. I love Dublin. I love these people. I said in my first post that I thought places are usually only as good as the people in it. I wonder now, on my last night, if I would have enjoyed this as much if I were with a different group. It’s hard to imagine seeing these things alone without great people to share it all with and still feeling as happy as I do now.
Maybe it was only this good because the people I shared it with were also this good. Maybe it would have been just amazing if I saw it alone. Either way, I’m glad I had these people, and I’m glad I saw these places.
Roses and Religion
Today was one of my favorite days of the entire trip so far. The botanical gardens were beautiful. I loved the rose garden some of us visited before the museum the most of all. The museum was also fascinating because it had so many different areas to explore. The art exhibits were by far my favorite. We also had a great lunch, then Jolie and I explored the botanical gardens more. We found a field where a group of men were playing some type of bowling game, and we sat to watch them for a while. They invited us to join and we learned some of the rules, then got to try it ourselves. (Jolie might have been better than me. Whatever.)
Then, we went on our black taxi tour to learn about the troubles and the tumultuous relationship between Catholics and Protestants in Northern Ireland. The tour was really fascinating because our guide was obviously Catholic, and he said he knew some of the people who got murdered or injured throughout the years without peace. I was thinking about how little people can be reduced to when they are defending a place, or an idea like religion. Seeing all of the names of people as young as five years old memorialized because they senselessly died at the hands of a stranger of a different religion puts things more into perspective. I realize it is more complicated than merely religion, but it is difficult to imagine what else could drive people to be so reckless. It is also interesting to think about the parallels in the United States, in terms of people being so defensive about Islam. I loved getting a chance to sign the peace wall as well. Most of the signatures were accompanied by a request for peace and equality, and I wonder how achievable it really is after I learn the brutal history of these places.
A whole new world.
This is a horrid photo. I am fully aware of that fact, and I apologize.
When I saw this statue, I was reminded of one of my favorite fantasy book series, Fablehaven. There is a point in the second book where one of the main characters, Seth, accidentally encounters an evil, ravenous giant frog demon who will eventually eat Seth (but he didn’t die because there were three more books left). The drawing on the cover of the book or the frog reminded me of the statue at the museum.
The mythical place from Fablehaven was more important and vivid to me than the real place where the statue had come from (so much so that I don’t remember at all where the statue is from or what the story behind it is). All of the history in the statue had been smeared away from me because I read a book in middle school, and this isn’t a bad thing. In reality, I’m not that into art, and I would rather read about something or watch the video than see it in real life (my memory is so bad that adding in the other stimuli helps), so I wouldn’t likely remember the statue at all if it hadn’t been for the connection that I had made to the invented place.
Bye bye Belfast
I initially thought for my final blog post I would recap my trip as a whole, recounting the good times I had while in Ireland. However, today was such a busy day filled with other things I’d like to mention I am not sure I’ll have the time or space to put much emphasis on the past few weeks I’ve been abroad. The Botanical Gardens are a top event of the day for me, starting with how a very kind Indian lady allowed us to sample corn fritters they had used earlier for a very intricate photo shoot. Despite their coldness they were delicious and I followed this impromptu treat by entering the botanical green house. Small plants, tall plants, spiky plants and soft plants were crammed in every free inch of space within the glass walls and you had to follow a narrow grated path as you made your way through the three different climates. Grape vines hung from white walls and purple flowers stood out amongst the green, and after I could no longer stand the humidity I reemerged into the crisp Irish air. It’s funny how easily I can grow accustomed to cooler weather and forget how unbearable humidity can be especially since I have lived in the south all of my life. Our next stop was the Ulster Museum on the same property as the Botanical Gardens and it also did not let me down in its variety of interesting exhibits. It still blows my mind how almost all museums are free here in Ireland and it is going to be dearly missed when I return to the states. We ended our day trip with a Black Taxi tour of Shankill/Falls road. Despite our cab being white, the tour was more than I expected in content and host. Our tour guide was informative and funny and you would have never guessed he knew the very people he talked to our group about. We are ending the day getting dinner all together, the second to last meal we will enjoy as a group. I feel lucky to have met everyone who shared this experience with me and I will miss all of you as much as Ireland itself.
Transition
Transition. The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “transition” as a “passage from one state, stage, subject, or place to another: change” (n. a. “transition). Today, we left our dorms and temporary classroom at University College of Dublin and set out for Belfast. On the AirCoach, I peered out of the window at the passing landscape–blurs of greenery with picturesque farms, houses, and churches. These places that hold meaning to people who live there or have a connection to the area simply pass through my gaze–figures of a place with no fixed physical connection, but constantly changing images. Like being lost in a narrative, an imaginary time and place, my mind is enchanted by the moving spaces.
Sometimes I speculate about the towns and houses that move past. What is happening in that place in the split moment that I travel by? I try to find a static image in the flux of moving landscape, creating my own story and projecting my own meaning. For instance, we drove under a bridge where a herd of cows were crossing–where were they going? Who did they belong to? I can still recall the image of the cows crowding across the bridge even though the image crossed my gaze quickly as the bus continued its route.
Transition also foresees a new place, so that the moving landscapes and volatile images signify a progression to another place. Each passing image brings the thought of a new place. The motion of the bus and the quickly passing landscape incites my excitement, wonder, and curiosity.