Today we did the 1916 walking tour which was led by Lorcan Collins (omg !!!!) who wrote the book The Easter Rising. That whole tour was incredible. I thought it was extremely informational and that guy is an incredible storyteller. I thought it was interesting to see all of the places where the Easter Rising had an impact. I think it’s interesting that all the rebels in the rising chose all of these specific places such as City Hall, the bridge, the General Post Office, and Dublin Castle. The most interesting part to me was when you could see the bullet holes in the pillars of the General Post Office. This is extremely symbolic within this place because it has so much history. The concept of place here is the physical markings that have been caused by this huge battle that was fought for independence. I also thought it was interesting when he talked about how they occupied these extremely significant places such as the Post Office and City Hall. I find it interesting that these two places can have more power than the rest of the places fought in the Rising such as St. Stephens Green. Places can be more significant than others, and its interesting that places can keep that significance for hundreds of years. The walking tour also had a significant split of people, and I think that also has to do with the concept of place. Some of these people who weren’t interested in the walking tour were younger and probably weren’t interested in history. This makes most of the places we went yesterday insignificant to these people because of the concept of history. I personally connect with history, so these places were significant to me. I think its super interesting that place can be connected to concepts in that manner.
Category Archives: June 12
“It was all a great adventure,” Chester Beatty
As soon as Whitney, Nicole, and I entered the Beatty Library, it became clear to us that we had not allowed enough time to fully explore this incredible space. This evening when we returned to campus, we checked the schedule to determine when we could return to the library. We plan to visit again before leaving Dublin.
As I was reading about Beatty, a few things stood out immediately, much of which is summed up in the title of this blog post and is a quote attributed to him: “It was all a great adventure.” Beatty viewed life as an adventure. His adventurous spirit is relatable, especially because I have traveled so many miles away from home to better understand Irish literature, history, and culture. There’s a hint of a kindred spirit in him.
On a somewhat superficial note, I was awestruck to learn that Beatty had his own librarian. The sheer volume of his collection necessitated a personal librarian. This unique factoid is a testament to the seriousness with which he viewed his collection. Beatty’s enrichment of Dublin (and the world given that his collection is showcased at many other museums) through his collection of ancient texts is invaluable. His approach to collecting these types of artifacts is the right one – his desire was for these materials to be accessible to the masses. The library itself is laid out beautifully (although the impossibility of taking pictures is almost painful), and I appreciate the timelines and explanations that accompany the texts. Beatty was clearly interested in religion, and given the volatile tensions between various religions, it’s surreal to see Christian, Buddhist, and Islamic texts peacefully occupy the same space. The sheer beauty of these papyri, scrolls, and books is overwhelming. I look forward to spending more time exploring Beatty’s collection and learning about him.
June 12
Today was probably the most interesting day we have had so far. The 1916 walking tour was the one thing on our itinerary that I was looking forward to the most. I honestly have never read a non-textbook history book before, but this was honestly more than I could have ever asked for. The tour guide was so captivating and really brought the history of the 1916 Easter Rising to life. I had very high expectations for this tour, and thankfully I can say that they were well surpassed. Reading the book, it was a little easy to picture the places that these events took place since there were pictures, but actually seeing the physical places like the General Post Office, City Hall, and the Jim Larkin statue really helped me fully understand the gravity of the situations that the people of Dublin found themselves in during the Easter Rising of 1916.
Later in the day, Karson and I went to the Hurling Demonstration in the field across from the residence halls. It was such a fun experience to get to learn how to play a sport that is only played in Ireland. Eoin, our hurling instructor, was also a professional hurling player and went to school at UCD and trinity. He told Karson and I that he got his masters at Trinity and is now a High School Irish and History teacher. I thought it was so cool how this guy took a few hours out of his day just to teach some study abroad students how to play a game that they will probably never seen again.
Something that I have also begun to notice and appreciate about Ireland is how everyone knows so much about the history of the city. Back home, I would find it hard to believe that many people could talk for five minutes about its history. This is probably due to the fact that Dublin is steeped in much more recent history than Atlanta, but I still find it interesting how everyone is well educated on the importance of Dublin in Ireland.
Day 5:
Dr. Richardson’s mention of tour fatigue this afternoon epitomizes my current condition. However, today’s 1916 Walking Tour, guided by Lorcan Collins was enough to pull me out of my exhaustion. For starters, he is hilarious, and humor will always pull me out of a daze. Additionally, his ability to find humor within such a devastating subject matter is amazing. He is clearly intimately attached to Ireland’s history but can recognize the power his message could have when it is made accessible through humor.
Besides his humor, he was loaded with information made even more compelling when conveyed in person and in the places he writes about. The most memorable moment for me was when he pulled out the bullets recovered from the battle and placed them in the openings on the columns outside the GPO. We’ve walked past that place half a dozen times since arriving in Dublin, but never had I felt the volume of history resting in that place. Additionally, his detailing about how and where the soldier’s concealing themselves and awaited the Brits arrival added depth to a place that I was struggling to imagine as war torn. In fact, I’ve struggled entirely imagining the Dublin that Joyce and historians described to have existed at the turn of the century; there is little left in ruins, as is typical in most European, previously war-torn countries. In the article links here (https://www.irishcentral.com/news/dublin-still-bears-the-scars-of-the-1916-easter-rising-almost-100-years-later-170010346-237576791), one can see images from the battles that we have been discussing throughout this trip. Modernity, economic success and (most importantly) freedom (!!) has allowed Dublin to move forward from its history. I was surprised to find the Shelbourne Hotel in the article above. While one of our guides may have very well mentioned this place, and I just as well may have lost it in the loads of information we have consumed, I was excited to learn that the exterior remains as it had when the battle took place from its windows. Driving past this building throughout our time here, I always notice the beauty of its exterior and the traditional aspects of the doorman and bright flowers. I’m eager to examine it more closely for evidence of the battle concealed behind its beauty.
Afterwards, a few of us made our way to the Chester Beatty Library, and it exceeded my expectations. We were in awe of the sheer size of Beatty’s collection. The guide at the entrance explained to us that what is showcased is only 1% of Beatty’s collection, which was overwhelming for us, especially since we couldn’t even comprehend the concept of building a collection the size of what was shown.
Because of my lack of exposure to Islamic histories, I was captivated by what I learned from the Islamic collections (Here’s a link since we could not take any photos: http://www.cbl.ie/Collections/The-Islamic-Collection.aspx). Specifically, I was interested in the writing styles used. Besides the beauty of their script, one piece commented on the layering technique often used in published pieces, where readers would look to certain features in a specific order to find meaning. The bit of a time we had to spend did not allow me to completely internalize this concept, nor would even weeks with works, but I was fascinated by this alternative form of communication that I had never come into contact with before.
A Castle Frozen in Time
Today was very interesting day. We finally got to discuss a little bit of Eastern Rising of 1916, and we even had a quick review section of “The Easter Rising: A Guide to Dublin in 1916″ By Conor Kostick and Lorgan Collins .I found the book to be concise, and very well organized. The information found in this text was very helpful to understand the significance of the Easter Rising. As a political science major, I was really excited to visit the places that held historical significance in the process of Independence of this nation such as: The General Post Office, Trinity College, City Hall, and Dublin Castle. The experience was even better than what I have expected, thanks to our tour guide: Lorgan Collins.Yes! The author of the book! He is obviously very knowledgeable about the subject, and was able to provide very interesting details of this period of time.
Dublin Castle was in my opinion one of the most beautiful places we have visited so far. What impressed me the most about this place is the fact that it has been around since the medieval times. According to Dublin Castle’s website this place was built in 1204 and served until 1922 as the home of the English monarchs, and Irish representatives. It was amazing to see how well conserved this place remains. I seem like it had have been froze on time. This reminded me of the concept introduced by Cresswell that explains that places hold significance not because of their location, but because of the memories that have been created in a that particular space. He invited us to think of memories as being timeless and define not by space, but by history.
The Chester Beatty Library
After lunch today, Shana, Nicole and I returned to visit the Chester Beatty Library at Dublin Castle, and words will not be able to express how much I loved it. The Library describes itself as “a vibrant, engaging and welcoming space for the appreciation and understanding of world cultures” on its website. Though we were there for much too short of a time – we all could have spent at least two hours – we were completely enthralled with what it had to offer.
I did a bit more research on Chester Beatty himself to understand the variety of his collection and why he became a collector. Beatty is actually American, born in New York in 1875. He graduated as a mining engineer from Columbia University and eventually established a mining consultancy in New York. From a young age, Beatty loved to collect and bet on items with his father – a hobby that stuck with him until he died in 1968. I can’t place exactly what interested him in the items he began collecting, like Chinese snuff bottles and Oriental art and books except that he likely traveled there and fell in love with the artistry.
Beatty traveled to London in 1911 after his wife suddenly died and became a British citizen in 1933 (followed by honorary Irish citizenship in 1957) and was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II in 1954. He established himself as a fierce and competitive force in the Orientalist art market during this time and he established a relationship with the British Museum – some items from his collection are also on display there, including nineteen Egyptian papyri. As he got older, he would buy items only to donate them – he appeared to me to be very conscious of the inaccessibility of art and ancient works and purchased items to be shown at free exhibits. The Chester Beatty Library, after all, is free of charge to see. I think Beatty enjoyed tracking down items of great value more than enjoying them and displaying them in his own home, based on the research I’ve done. The website for the Library says Beatty was “deeply committed to preserving texts for their historic value.”
The variety of texts and paintings/artwork on display in the Chester Beatty Library are a sight to see and I will definitely have to go back to get a true appreciation for Mr. Beatty’s collection. The worker at the front desk let us know that what’s on display in the entire library is only 1% of what he owned – imagine the other 99%!
Lady Gregory by Antonio Mancini
The Hugh Lane Gallery houses an exciting and diverse collection of artwork. I enjoyed perusing the stained glass exhibit and the Francis Bacon exhibit. Bacon’s claim that his chaotic workspace was conducive to creativity was thought-provoking insofar as all artists and authors have strong opinions about engendering creativity under certain (usually repeated) conditions. For me, a chaotic environment is unrelentingly prohibitive of creative output. I found my favorite piece from Anne Madden’s Colours of the Wind exhibit, Winged Figure, at Town Hall today, although the pieces showcased at the Hugh Lane Gallery are all beautiful.
Ire/Land III by Patrick Graham is darkly evocative and is a piece I can’t stop thinking about. I’ve reviewed my pictures of it several times, and I plan to research the artist and his artwork in the future.
However, the artwork I was most drawn to in the Hugh Lane Gallery was Lady Gregory by Antonio Mancini. The reason I’m drawn to this portrait of Lady Gregory is because it crystallized for me her pervasive influence on the arts in Ireland. Not only was she a patron of Yeats and a co-founder of The Abbey theatre, but she was also an accomplished playwright. Her short play “The Rising of the Moon,” while on its surface simple, is a thought-provoking tale that in its deceptive simplicity challenges the audience’s notion of nationalist loyalty. Her portrait in the museum solidifies her influence and has encouraged me to further research her artistic and political contributions to Ireland.
Hugh Lane Gallery
Once I saw Micheal Farrell’s “Madonna Ireland or the Very First Real Irish Political Picture,” or “Madonna Ireland,” I couldn’t look away. The picture has so much to take in, with the starkly naked angel, to the peeling paper revealing a second face, to the contorted depiction of the infamous Leonardo da Vinci’s Study of proportions.
I think the da Vinci illusion is the most striking, considering that his work is meant to convey proportion, whereas Farrell’s piece does not. Most notable is the altered face in the da Vinci photo, offering a much more disturb figure with contorted features. Additionally, instead of portraying balance, the figure is concealing its genital. The figures acknowledgement of the exposed genitals reads as him attempting to conceal them from becoming sexualized and acknowledges a vulnerability in nudity. If this is true, what does it mean that the angel is also nude?
While I do not have training in theories surrounding art, the chaos depicted here rests in the space’s inability to find balance. For starters, we have the mess surrounding the naked angel. My immediate impression upon seeing the angel is she is out of place; I anticipate an angel being in a pure space, without the clutter and disarray–and especially without the intrusive face in the corner, looming over her. To an extent, though, she appears trapped in this chaos, seeking an pseudo-escape by looking out the small opening in a window.
Another feature of the Hugh Lane Gallery that I loved was the quotes about place in the Bacon section. He says:
“For some reason the moment I saw this place I knew that I could work here. I am very influenced by places – by the atmosphere of a room…”
“This mess here around us is rather like my mind; it may be a good image of what goes on inside me, that’s what it’s like, my life is like that…”
Because of the conversations we have had about place in our class, I appreciated Bacon’s acknowledgement of the role of place in the creative process. Interestingly, he acknowledges that a place was essentially waiting for him, but that it also was able to be molded into being his, with him adding a mess to it–making it his own.