The first thing I realized about Belfast was that it is strikingly different from Dublin. Not just the architecture, but almost every aspect of this city is different. Though they are both port cities, Dublin touts its merchant arena, while Belfast’s claim to fame is a sunk ship. While I do enjoy Belfast, and I am going to the Titanic Museum, I was incredibly surprised at the differences between this city and Dublin. First, the architecture is different. Belfast is full of Victorian influences, which makes sense given its past. In fact, Victoria seems to be the theme in Belfast. When we first walked up to the Belfast City Council building, I noticed a large statue of Queen Victoria. This is very different from Dublin, which was full of statues of rebellion leaders. I think back to the civil war in Ireland, and now I understand more how conflicting the cities were. They are so different. Also, Belfast is a very wealthy city port, and the city hall is evidence of that wealth. The inside is full of marble, even green marble from Greece that was displayed in London before coming to Belfast. This wealth, made from being a port city for Great Britain, was a very contentious aspect between Ireland and Northern Ireland. When you have wealth from being a colonial aspect of a greater state, it is very hard to justify overthrowing that state. Belfast has obviously benefitted from being a port city, and it works for them to continue in this manner. I think that, at times, we can look on a city that did not rebel against a colonial power as being weaker than those that did. But that is not the case. Belfast is better for being a part of Great Britain.
Monthly Archives: June 2017
Belfast
Yesterday we left Dublin and went to Belfast. I have to admit, I was pretty bummed about leaving Dublin because I loved it so much there but at the same time I was excited to go to Belfast. This is a new place for me, so the excitement had been building since we got here. The first thing I noticed about Belfast was the beautiful rolling hills and mountains in the background. This was absolutely stunning, and it almost felt like home. Afterwards we went to Belfast City Hall which is what is pictured above. I immediately noticed the stunning architecture inside. It looked extremely victorian and meticulously built, and I heard Karson describe it as being very “colonial” which I think hits the mark. I thought it was really cool to learn about another country’s government. I thought it was really interesting that they choose a new mayor every year, and the lady described that Belfast does this because they want each mayor to be fully invested for the people. They do not feel here that a mayor can be as effective if they’re in office for a longer period of time. This opened my eyes a little bit into how the other world sees things. There are lots of things that people in Europe do that Americans do not and I find the little quirks very interesting. My favorite part of the tour was when our tour guide Julie (who was adorable, by the way) was so excited to tell us that it was the first time that there were only women in the major spots of the city council. I thought this was so powerful, and as a feminist it made me incredibly happy that this had happened.
Belfast
Today was an eventful day. We left Ireland in the morning and I felt a mixed of emotions. I was excited to know that a new destination was awaiting, but at the same time extremely overwhelm for leaving a place that has acquired a great significance in my life. When we arrived to Belfast I couldn’t help to compare it with Dublin. As our professor anticipated the architecture in Belfast is a reflection of the 19th century which makes the city look more industrialized, and familiar with the landscape at home. It was very interesting to see how everything seems to be a combination of Irish and Anglo culture. For a second I was a little confused and really trying to define the politics and national identity of this place. It was exactly then when everything we learned regarding the partition of Northern Ireland, the troubles, and religious tension between England and Ireland came to life. Everything started to make sense. My impression on this first day in Belfast is that people on this side of the island are still conflicted when it comes to defining identity , and that the best coping method is the incorporation of elements from both cultures into their lives.
Upon our arrival, we visited Belfast City Hall. So far ,I think this is my favorite part of the city.The architecture of this place seemed to shared a more similar style to the major buildings in Dublin Ireland, with respect to the rest of Belfast. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable about the history, architecture and current political structure in Northern Ireland. It was again very interesting to see how they have taken pieces and elements from both cultures to develop and recount their history.
The Titanic Museum in Belfast
The Titanic Museum in Belfast is slightly misleading insofar as it encompasses much more than the Titanic tragedy. The first portion of the exhibit is dedicated to an exploration of early-twentieth-century Belfast, which was nicknamed Linenopolis because of its linen production. It was fascinating to read about linen production and to see its production in various phases. The museum engages visitors on a variety of tactile and technological levels as early-twentieth-century Belfast comes alive through multiple moving screens, interactive maps, and still exhibits.
There’s a fun 4D ride halfway through the exhibit that allows visitors to see, hear, and feel what it may have been like to work on the Titanic’s hull. I enjoyed seeing examples of class-based living quarters and reading survival accounts of the sinking.
A few things in the exhibit reminded me of themes we’ve discussed over the last few weeks. In the portion of the exhibit dedicated to the building of the Titanic, a narrator mentions that the Titanic was often referred to as the pride of Belfast. In this way, the city’s identity was intertwined with this feat of engineering. Tickets were given away and sold so that spectators could witness the Titanic being launched. This representation of Belfast as a lively, thriving city stands in marked contrast to the paralysis of Dublin represented in much of the literature we’ve read and studied.
Something else that stood out to me was a section devoted to the captain of the Titanic. There are many accounts of where he was and what he was doing as the boat sank. All of them are heroic. These various and contradictory accounts speak to the human tendency to mythologize and/or canonize tragic figures.
Overall, I greatly enjoyed the museum not only for its fascinating history of the Titanic but for its larger contextual history of Belfast.
On-ward To Belfast
We have arrived in Belfast! I immediately noticed differences between Dublin and Belfast. The main difference to me, aside from the fact that Belfast is apart of the United Kingdom and uses pounds as currency, is the architecture. The buildings here have a very Victorian style, and all of the post boxes are red, where as in Dublin they are green. The city also has a “newer” feeling to it. Which I later learned is due to the fact of rebuilding. Belfast was heavily involved in WWll and suffered from bombings. After checking in to our hotel and ate lunch, we ventured to City Hall, and took a tour. It is absolutely breath taking. The marble was so stunning. The green marble actually came from Greece, and is so rare, that before using it as pillars in the City Hall, it was put on display in London for people to see.
It was also exciting for me to learn that their city’s Lord Mayor, is a woman. She is one of the four women to every hold this title, which is voted on by the citizens of Belfast. Today I was chosen to be the lucky volunteer to try on the thick robes wore during council sessions. They weigh about 20 pounds, and are red with black stripes. Participating in walk through of the ballroom, and city chambers was also very neat. The carpeting is even “royal”. There also seemed to be a wedding reception taking place, and I loved how important City Hall is to the citizens of Belfast.
Titanic Museum, Belfast!
The highlight of the day was the Titanic Museum. Earlier in the trip, we discussed the idea that a place harbors memory. I had mentioned the text Beloved by Toni Morrison that I had been working with for the last few semesters, in which a character says “[the memories within a place are] never going away…and what’s more, if you go there…and stand in the place where it was, it will happen again” (Morrison 36). The Titanic museum achieves this and reminds its attendees of this throughout the exhibits.
For starters, the museum contains a thorough history of Belfast’s industries, going into detail about their rope and linen industries—so much detail, in fact, that by the time attendees make it to the first sign of ship making, they have a concept of the lives of Belfast’s people. This foundation in the Belfast industries also shows the interconnectedness of labor in the city, since the museum’s layout encourages attendees to make connections between the earlier two industries and ship making, where the ships make use of the ropes and linens. The foundation in what was occurring in Belfast culminates in establishing the amount of effort and Belfast manpower that was involved in constructing the Titanic, where all the major industries had a role, culminating in the Titanic’s fate being more tragic than I had realized before, since the Titanic was a symbol of Belfast’s abilities.
Additionally, throughout the museum, windows would make attendees privy to space in which the Titanic stood prior to its first voyage. After having seen who built the ship, models of the rooms that filled it and photos of the maiden voyage and its passengers, I could easily imagine the ship being in the empty shipyard—making the space in the shipyard a place.
I left with an eerie feeling about the experience. The museum disrupted some of my earlier ideas about the Titanic tragedy, but it mostly solidified the power of a space. While places like the GPO, St. Stephens Green and The Shelburne Hotel in Dublin all harbored remains of their extreme histories, I was mostly effected by the place of the Titanic. I think this mostly has to do with the response of the people who also inhabit the historic place. Whereas the Titanic Museum is soley dedicated to memorializing the ship and its passengers, Dublin’s historic sights mostly are part of everyday life for Dubliners: a post office, a recreational park, etc. I imagine in 15 years, when the shipyard area of Belfast is finished with its revitalization process (which it has posted plans for on the sight) that the place will become more like Dublin, where the memories will still remain but they will be slightly less intrusive—where it may be more difficult for them to pervade your senses in the way that the quote from Morrison’s text suggests.
National Gallery of Ireland: Vermeer
Yesterday we went to the National Gallery of Ireland and saw the main museum which consisted of many different pieces of art from a variety of time periods. One piece that really struck me in the main museum was a self-portrait a modern artist did. It was an HD video of her in a bathtub almost staring into your soul, and I felt that was meant to force the audience to really captivate her emotions. I also felt that the bathtub symbolizes almost a raw emotion or even her birth. I just thought that the place in which she did her self portrait was extremely symbolic about who she is. The second part of that day was when we daw Johannes Vermeer. This exhibit was absolutely incredible. We went in the gift shop beforehand and plastered everywhere was his most famous painting the girl with the pearl earring. I was surprised to see that that particular painting was not in this exhibit but happened to be all over the gift shop. I enjoyed this exhibit more than anything we have done this entire trip. The things that drew me in were the amazing artistic abilities and the variations of technique throughout all of the artists. I also thought it was really interesting how all of these artists were constantly playing off each other’s work, and how one just constantly was inspiring the other. My personal favorite was of the men he painted of the Astronomer, and the Geographer. I thought it was interesting that they decided to feature men in this particular body of work since it has been mostly women. What I also found captivating was the fact that they do not know if he had just decided to do two paintings inspired off each other, or if he was inspired by someone else. In general, this exhibit was amazing and I felt like I had made a connection with it.
National Gallery of Ireland
Today was a big day for all us giving the fact that it was our last day in Ireland. We decided to spent our last day in another wonderful place: The national Gallery of Ireland, which was recently renovated . One of the things that completely blew my mind away is the architecture of this place. It was so elegant that it seem surreal. This touch of sophistication gave the artistic pieces even more life. I was absolutely beautiful how well they blended, and how the architecture added so much more context into these pieces. As I was walking through the gallery I couldnt help to realized that the pieces seemed to repeat consecutive themes: Place & Religion. I do not know whether the selection was intentional or not, but this are in fact the themes that have shaped Irish History, and literature.
One of my favorite pieces was ” The infant Saint John Playing with a Lamb” by Bartolome Murillo, which is the picture located below. I found it to be very heartwarming. This piece is a representation of the purity and innocents of Saint John. The lamb of course is a representation of Christ. There were many other painting similar to this picture, where children were the muse of inspiration that the most famous artist used to deliver a message.
We ended our visit to the Gallery by attending to the Vermeer Exhibition. I was fascinated by all the messages hidden between these paintings. I learned that art is inter-connectable, and that sometimes artist responded to pieces designed by others, or contributed to their improvement, even when back in that period of time it wasn’t as easy to communicate or move across the globe.
Vermeer
Although not connected to Irish literature or history, the Vermeer exhibit at the National Gallery of Ireland highlights the evolution of Dublin from Joycean poverty and paralysis to contemporary cosmopolis. As I perused the paintings in the exhibit, one of the first things I noticed about almost all of them was the use of chiaroscuro, which gives the paintings incredible depth and makes many of them appear three dimensional.
The intertextuality of the paintings is remarkable. It is fascinating to see paintings within paintings and different renderings of the same subject matter. This intertextuality reminded me of the different scholarly approaches taken when analyzing literature. Each is beautiful, valuable, and relevant in its own right and, in most cases, analyses and theory, like these paintings, builds on what comes before it.
Among this coterie of artists there seems to have existed a healthy balance of rivalry and support. It’s reminiscent of other relationships between successful artists such as Yeats and Joyce as illustrated in Joyce’s letters at the Yeats exhibit at the National Library. What is meaningful to me in both examples is that the artists were better for being challenged and supported by their peers. Academia can be a difficult, contentious, and somewhat exclusive environment. Although I resist the urge to idealize the relationships among the Dutch masters, it’s clear that the artistic circle in which they moved engendered greater creativity and skill through amicable interaction. In the last portion of the exhibit, the older master was inspired by a younger artist, which is a good lesson in humility and is sometimes necessary for progress.
Chester Beatty’s Presence at the National Gallery
Today’s excursion at the National Gallery of Ireland was absolutely incredible. The Vermeer exhibit was definitely a once in a lifetime opportunity and I loved it much more than I thought I would. I’m so glad we got tickets even though it’s not related to Irish Literature or History (since Vermeer is Dutch). After being fully immersed in Dublin and Irish culture, it was nice to step back for a bit and appreciate another culture in context. My favorite paintings are Woman with a Balance and the pair The Astronomer and The Geographer.
Before we went through the Vermeer exhibit, we were able to walk around the rest of the gallery, and I absolutely loved it! I am not as interested in the Picassos of the art world, but I did notice that a lot of the paintings or sculptures in one of the European Art exhibits (1850-1950 I believe, but I’m not positive) were actually donated or presented by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty – if that name sounds familiar, its because of the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin Castle! I mentioned this in my other blog post about him, but Chester Beatty understood that art needed to be accessible to people of all classes, so he would purposely buy art just to donate it to museums and other places and people so they could be exhibited and seen by everyone. I remember a worker at the Chester Beatty Library saying that what was on display there was only 1% of Beatty’s possessions and purchases, and seeing his gifts in the National Gallery reinforced that number. It was wonderful seeing his name on a lot of the artwork, and his cause is admirable – no matter where you come from or how much money you make, Beatty wanted to make sure you were able to see these masterpieces that he loved to find and purchase.