After closing out another week of learning and new experiences in Salvador, we had a ‘free’ Saturday to engage in activities of our choosing. I decided to do typical Brazilian/Bahian things – spend time with family, eat and drink, and attend a local futebol game!
This morning I went with my host mom’s sister, my “host aunt” to visit the Fundacao de Neurologia e Neurocirugia, Instituto de Cerebro. My host mom’s brother, who surprisingly has my dad’s exact name, is a well-known neurologist in Salvador and started a foundation in 1992 that provides free services to patients in need every Saturday. Each Saturday they see an average of 150 patients and train various medical residents. I was able to meet a few of the attending physicians and residents, learn about their services, and was even asked to attend rounds. I consider myself to be fluent in Portuguese (my parents are originally from Portugal), but medical neurology terms are not in my vocabulary!
After the visit, we went off to a salon where I got a manicure and pedicure. Brazilian women seem to like having their nails done, so I decided it would be a nice cultural pampering activity. My experience was a bit different than having similar services done in the United States. The technician grabbed my feet and put them on her knee and started filing, cutting my cuticles, and then painting. My feet were not soaked or scrubbed in water, the focus was really on just filing and painting the nails. Also, there was no massage chair! I chatted with the technician about what I was doing in Brazil, what getting nails done is like in the States, and even showed her some of the nail art a nail technician I’ve worked with in Atlanta has done. I also watched some local Brazilian news on TV and watched other women getting their hair and nails done. I decided on a red polish – bright and lively, just like Salvador!
Since a visit to Brazil in 2009, I’ve been enamored with Havaianas, the Brazilian sandal/flip flop brand. I did a quick Google search and learned that Havaianas (which means Hawaiians in Portuguese) were created in 1962 and inspired by the Japanese Zori sandal, a sandal with cloth straps and woven rice straw soles. The straw was replaced with premium Brazilian rubber and a sole with a rice grain print. The original rubber thong sandal was invented in 1966. I still wear the first pair of Havaianas I got in 2009 to the pool and have gotten at least seven other pairs since. I find them to be comfortable, sturdy, and fashionable. Anyhow, I’ve seen so many Brazilians around Salvador wearing Havaiianas and wanted to get a few pairs as souvenirs for family and friends. Today I went with my host aunt to a Havaianas store in the Pelourinho area and bought a few pairs, including one for myself with the Brazilian flag and a cool graphic with the Salvador city sites and name. A perfect Brazilian shoe to show off my pedicure! They will help me remember Salvador with every step I take in them.
As our days in Salvador are winding down, it seems like my host mom is focused on having me try traditional Bahian cuisine and I am happy about it! Bahian cuisine was heavily influenced by African people who were enslaved by the Portuguese who not only brought their own style of cooking with them, but also modified Portuguese dishes with African herbs and spices. My lunch today including servings of moqueca, a fish stew that includes dendê (African palm oil) and coconut milk; banana da terra (roasted plantain); vatapá, a shrimp puree made with dendê oil and nuts, and quiabo (okra). I loved the mix of flavors!
I closed the day with a soccer game with our group at Salvador’s soccer stadium, Itapaiva Arena Fonte Nova. Though I’m not a huge sports fan, soccer has a special place in my heart because I grew up watching it with my dad, so I was excited to experience my favorite sport and a beloved Brazilian pastime. One of Salvador’s teams, Esporte Clube Bahia played against one of the top teams in the Brazilian A league, Sport Club Corinthians Paulista from Sao Paulo. Bahia’s colors are red, white, and blue, and we were explicitly told not to wear the opponent team colors of black and white (Brazilians can get rowdy at soccer games!), so we all decked out in Bahia replica jerseys and Bahia colors. We took a shuttle to a point close to the stadium and then walked some of the way to the stadium. The energy in the street was palpable! We had to stay close together to make sure we didn’t get separated in the commotion of people entering the gate. We sat in the section opposite from the rowdiest section with people waving flags and jumping while they cheered.
I saw and learned a few interesting things during the game. One was the two empty seat sections that served as a barrier between the section in which the Corinthian fans were seated and the rest of the fans. Another was the number of military and state police working to ensure the safety of the fans, players, and referees. I learned that many people do not follow their seat assignments, but typically do sit in the section they are ticketed for. I also learned that the Itapaiva Arena Fonte Nova replaced an older stadium and opened in time for the 2014 FIFA World Cup that was held in Brazil. The stadium’s capacity is 48,000 and 43,716 people attended yesterday’s game (stats were reported on the jumbotron). It was fun to see so many people animated by the game which was a good one for Bahia; Bahia did not score, but they got close many times and managed to defend very well. Attending the game was lots of fun – for the soccer, for the cheering, and for the people watching!
One of the chants for the Bahia soccer team is “Bora, Bahia!” or “Let’s Go, Bahia!” And that’s exactly how I felt about my day yesterday, “Bora, Bahia!”